《星球大战》激发时装灵感 Fashion feels the force

Northern Ireland-born Jonathan Anderson, 30, launched JW Anderson in 2008. In 2013, he was also appointed creative director of the luxury Spanish label Loewe. 今年30岁的乔纳森褠德森(Jonathan) Anderson出生于北爱尔兰，他于2008年创建JW Anderson品牌。2013年，他还被任命为西班牙奢侈品牌罗意威(Loewe)的创意总监。 ‘Star Wars is significant for me because it’s about escapism. We all like the idea of having something that reflects the world we live in — but abstracted. Where we can see parallels, but altered — like a non-moment in time. I think Star Wars is good for that. You can’t categorise the costumes by one particular decade; the clothes are hyper-modern, but they have this organic oddness to them which is why they so often inspire my collections. “《星球大战》(Star Wars)系列片对我意义非凡，因为它讲述的是虚拟世界的故事。我们都喜欢反映现实世界的东西————但以高度抽象的方式呈现。在影片中，我们能看到它与现实世界的影子，但已经过艺术处理————类似时间中的无矩现象。我觉得《星球大战》对此轻车熟路。你无法把片中的各种服装具体归类于哪个时代；它们都是超现代时尚款式，但它们的怪异风格却是一脉相承，这就是它们常常启迪我的设计灵感之原因所在。” ‘For me, it’s all about juxtaposition — wrongs and rights, good taste, bad taste. I think my collections, for Loewe and my own label, need to feel quite sweet but fundamentally a bit screwed. You always need both good and evil. “在我看来，它反映的是对与错、高雅与粗俗的对立并列。无论是为罗意威还是自己品牌，我觉得自己设计的时装都应赏心悦目，但从根本上说得略微离经叛道。善恶元素都得在设计的时装中有所体现。” ‘As a kid I was obsessed by the movement of R2-D2, and how through all the films it just gets better and better. The stormtroopers — with their black and white costumes — are so striking, plus we all like a baddie. “我从小就对R2-D2机器人的各种呆萌动作以及它在《星战》系列片中表现越发出色痴迷不已。身穿黑白装束的帝国突击队(stormtroopers)同样让我念念不忘，此外，我们也很喜欢片中的坏蛋形象。” ‘I’ve always wanted to use Star Wars graphics, which is why I was so excited when Disney approached me to do a piece for the charity collection for Great Ormond Street Hospital. It’s not often you get approached by Star Wars, and I like collaborations that have a personal attachment. This one spoke to me because it was mega-fun to let go and become a child, and be obsessive about something.’ “我一直想借鉴《星球大战》中的服装设计，这就是当初迪斯尼公司(Disney)与我接洽、希望我为伦敦大奥蒙德街儿科医院(Great Ormond Street Hospital)慈善募捐设计一款时装时，自己欣喜若狂之原因所在。设计师能得到《星球大战》制片方的青睐，实属难得；我喜欢能打上个人喜好烙印的合作模式。它一下子就让我心动，因为自己可以‘肆意妄为’，尽情重现童年时的欢愉，并且沉醉其中。” Husband and wife, Justin Thornton, 46, and Thea Bregazzi, 47, come from the Isle of Man. They launched Preen by Thornton Bregazzi in 1996. 夫妻档设计组合：46岁的贾斯汀儠罨(Justin Thornton)与47岁的西娅布雷加兹(Thea Bregazzi)来自英国的马恩岛(Isle of Man)。1996年，他俩创建了Preen by Thornton Bregazzi品牌。 ‘There have always been slight sci-fi references in our designs but it wasn’t apparent to everyone until we decided to put Darth Vader on the front of a dress for AW14: it’s usually more of a feeling than a direct allusion — a graphic line or element that comes through. We love Darth Vader. You could show his picture to anyone in the world and they would know who he was. “我们一直从科幻片中借鉴设计灵感，但直到我们把天行者达斯维德(Darth Vader)的形象印在2014年秋冬季时装前胸，它才变得众所周知。通常说来，我们与其说是直接‘形似’，倒不如说是‘神似’————源自影片的图形线条或是图形元素。我特别喜欢达斯维德。全世界任何人只要看到他的照片，都会立刻识别出来。” ‘The most creative people at the head of the most creative industries are sci-fi fans, and Star Wars fans, and they’re all about our age. That’s what’s so inspirational about Star Wars. We grew up with it; it was one of the first films that meant something to us. “在最具创意的各个行业，最具创意者就是科幻迷与星战迷，这些人与我们年龄相仿。这就是为何《星球大战》影片能激发源源不断的灵感。我们伴着《星球大战》影片一起成长，它是深度影响我们的最初一批影片。” ‘We all carry Star Wars with us: the aesthetic, the visuals, the costumes, the robots, they all stand the test of time. And there are so many layers to the films’ design — the Samurai/Japanese references for the Jedis are quite rough and raw, contrasting with the pure white battleships. We love the juxtaposition. That’s why we can always use Star Wars as a reference, whether it’s a white minimal collection, or a natural, beigey, organic, wrapping collection. It all comes from the same source.’ “我们与《星球大战》可谓形影不离：其审美观、视觉形象、服饰以及机器人，而且它们成功经受了时间检验。影片的服装千姿百态————身穿日本武士装束的绝地武士(Jedis)显得粗犷威猛，他们与纯白色战舰形成了鲜明对比。我们都喜欢鲜明对比的并置方式，这就是我们经常借用《星球大战》素材之原因所在，不管是设计极简风格的白色装，还是天然有机面料的米色裹装系列，其设计灵感无一例外都源自《星战》系列影片。” Austro-Italian Peter Pilotto, 38, and his Belgian/Austrian business partner Christopher de Vos, 35, met while studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Art in Antwerp. They launched Peter Pilotto in 2007. 今年38岁的意籍奥地利人Peter Pilotto与他比利时与澳洲双重国籍的商业搭档、35岁的克里斯托弗德沃斯(Christopher de Vos)在安特卫普皇家美术学院(Royal Academy of Fine Art in Antwerp)上学时结识，他俩于2007年合伙创建Peter Pilotto品牌。 Growing up, Star Wars was on TV every year. We saw it so many times — the first three movies from the 1970s and 80s we really liked. The ones from 10 years ago, not so much. 从小到大，《星球大战》的影片年年在电视上映。我已看了N遍——我们真得很喜欢上世纪70年代至80年代上映的前三部影片，但从10年前开始上映的后几部，我们觉得只是一般般。 ‘There’s a certain Star Wars aesthetic that we were born with — something so familiar and unfamiliar at the same time. We don’t reference a single character in particular, it’s more the general visuals and the set that fascinate us. Those scenes from the first movie: the shiny robot, the spaceship in the desert, and these antique costumes in the mix with a futuristic environment — that tension is so inspiring. “《星战》中的一些美学，是我们生而就有的。我们不会专门引用其中某一特定人物，更多的情况是引用自己魂牵梦萦的某些画面与场景。首部《星战》影片的那些经典镜头：闪亮机器人、沙漠中的太空船、以及未来世界中的那些古代风格服饰————这种对立统一给我很大启迪。” ‘There’s a moment in Star Wars where the Millennium Falcon accelerates to warp speed and the stars go into this perspective tunnel: we used that as a reference to create a galaxy print for AW08. Our show producer Alex Betak is a big Star Wars fan as well, so that’s one of the reasons we always have a sci-fi undertone to our sets.’ “《星球大战》的其中一个镜头是：千年隼号宇宙飞船(Millennium Falcon)加速至曲速航行速度（Warp Speed，超过光速），而其它恒星也都进入这个透视隧道：在2008年的秋冬季时装中，我们借用这个场景设计了星系图纹。我们的时装秀监制艾历克斯贝塔克(Alex Betak)也是超级《星战》迷，因此这就是我们总是在推出的时装系列中体现科幻元素之原因所在。” Stockton-on-Tees designer Claire Barrow, 25, launched her label in 2013. Since February 2014 she has been receiving Newgen sponsorship from the British Fashion Council and Topshop. 来自蒂斯河畔斯托克顿(Stockton-on-Tees)的设计师克莱尔巴罗(Claire Barrow)今年芳龄25，她于2013年推出了自己的同名品牌。自2014年2月以来，她一直接受英国时装协会(British Fashion Council)以及Newgen资助。 ‘I was seven years old when I first saw the Star Wars films. A cinema in Middlesbrough reissued the original three so I went to see them with my dad. They inspired and disturbed me: when Hans Solo gets frozen in the carbonite in the Empire Strikes Back and when Darth Vader’s mask comes off in Return of the Jedi; both [scenes] really frightened me. “我第一次观看《星球大战》系列影片时只有七岁，米德尔斯堡(Middlesbrough)的一家影院当时重播该系列之前三部，所以我与老爸一起去观看。看得我既激动不已又胆战心惊：第五部《帝国反击战》(Empire Strikes Back)中汉∠洛(Han Solo)身陷炸药堆以及第三部《绝地归来》(Return of the Jedi)中达斯维德被摘掉面具这两个场景直看得我心惊肉跳。” It’s that element of fear without it being unwatchable that makes them so appealing. Sci-fi always influences my work. I once read that it is the purest form of creativity because it’s predicting a future that we don’t know, which helps to create stories that build the narrative of your collections. “正是这种恐惧感让影片百看不厌（没有这种恐惧感，《星战》系列片就会索然无味）。科幻影片一直影响着我的设计。我曾经读过相关文章，说这是最为纯粹的创意，因为它预测的是我们一无所知的未来世界，它还有助于编造故事，从而为自己的设计不断提供素材。” ‘The sweaters and T-shirts I’ve done refer to the films’ merchandise, with hand-drawn illustrations of C-3PO and R2-D2 as the best of friends — those characters make the films more fun.’ “我设计的毛衫以及T恤都借鉴了《星战》片中出现的物件，其中礼仪机器人以及R2-D2的手绘插图给予我最多灵感————那些角色也让影片妙趣横生。” Designers featured participated in Disney and Lucasfilm’s ‘Star Wars: Fashion Finds the Force’ event, in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital. Charity sweatshirts are available at Selfridges stores. ‘Star Wars: The Force Awakens’ is in UK cinemas from December 17 特效设计师参与迪斯尼以及卢卡斯影业(Lucasfilm)组织的为伦敦大奥蒙德街儿科医院慈善募捐的《星球大战激发时尚灵感》(Star Wars: Fashion Finds the Force)活动，设计的慈善T恤在塞尔福里奇百货店(Selfridges)公开销售。昆明韦博国际英语