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Mastering Skateboarding: Lip Tricks

小葡萄 2019-01-07 14:16:09

PUMP

1. Start at one side of the miniramp flat-bottom. Push hard once with your lead foot, and quickly get on your board. Pay attention to your stance. Your feet should be at least over your bolts or even farther out toward the ends of your board.

2. Roll up the tranny a ways and come straight back down backward (fakie).

3. Roll up the opposite tranny a ways and come straight back down forward.

4. Keep going until you run out of speed. Throw in a quick push when you can.

DROP IN

1. Place the board’s tail on the deck, with the rear wheels beyond the coping and the nose sticking out over the ramp. Keep the board in place with your rear foot on the tail and your lead foot on the deck.

2. Balance on your rear foot, and move your lead foot up just beyond the front bolts. You are ready to drop in. Do your best not to seize up mentally at this point. From the moment you put the board down, you should be focused on a smooth attempt without a lot of mental deliberation.

3. Without changing the position of the board, lean out over your lead foot. It’s critical that you put nearly all your weight onto your lead foot. Don’t push the board down with your lead foot, but lean your leg and hip into it. It may help to reach down and lightly hold the nose of the board with your forward hand to help bring your weight in.

4. As your weight is transferred to the nose of the board, stomp it hard onto the surface of the ramp. This is very important. The transfer of your weight to your front wheels must be committed and aggressive. You cannot “kind of” commit to stomping your front end.

5. The board should roll down the transition with you balanced on it. You did it! Pop out of the other side of the mini, grab your board, and set up to do it again.

ROLL IN

1. Start on the deck about 6 to 10 feet (2 to 3 m) away from the coping. You need enough room to get one good push and get your feet solidly on the board.

2. Push once and get on the board. Approach the coping head-on. Lots of people prefer to roll in with a bit of a frontside turn (with your back a little bit to the ramp).

3. When you get to the coping, lift your front wheels up just enough to clear it. Although this is a very short manual, you’ll want to keep your weight evenly on your board or slightly forward as if you were dropping in from your tail.

4. At the moment your rear wheels hit the coping, push down with your lead foot to point the board in the same angle as the transition. Your board will bounce a little off the coping. This should feel a lot like bouncing over a crack in the sidewalk; lift your weight so the board bounces over the coping easily.

5. Straighten your legs to stomp the board firmly onto the transition and roll the rest of the way down.

OLLIE IN

1. Push once on the deck to approach the coping with it to your back side and with enough room to position your feet into a small ollie stance. Don’t load up a monster ollie while you’re just learning this trick.

2. Just before your front wheels bonk the coping, pop a small ollie. Prepare yourself for landing in the transition by loading your lead leg with more of your weight than usual. This will help you tilt forward in the air and land with all four wheels simultaneously on the downward slope of the transition.

3. As your rear wheels pass the coping, press your front wheels into the transition so that all four wheels land together.

BACKSIDE KICKTURN

1. Start with a few pumps and fakies until you are midway up the transition. As you approach the transition and are ready to try a backside kickturn, steer the board a bit until it is rolling up the slope at a backside angle. You shouldn’t be going straight up the tranny the first few times you do this trick. It may seem counterintuitive, but many people find that doing a kickturn midway up the transition is easier than doing one near the bottom because kickturns are easier when you have some speed and momentum to work with.

2. Before you reach the apex of your carve, turn your head and look directly in the direction you want to go. Lift the front wheels slightly (without looking at them) and reposition the board so it is pointed where you are looking. You can even slide the front wheels if that is more comfortable for you. Don’t lift your front end so high that your tail touches the ground.

3. As you pick up speed and begin going back down the transition, correct the direction of the board until you’re well balanced.

FRONTSIDE KICKTURN

1. Start with a few pumps and fakies until you are midway up the transition. As you approach the transition and are ready to try a frontside kickturn, steer the board a bit until it is rolling up the slope at a frontside angle. You shouldn’t be going straight up the tranny the first few times you do this trick.

2. Before you reach the apex of your carve, turn your head and look back over your lead shoulder to the direction you want the board to go. Lift the front wheels slightly (without looking at them) and reposition the board so it is pointed where you are looking. It may help to turn your body toward the coping a little bit before you lift the front wheels.

3. As you pick up speed and begin going back down the transition, correct the direction of the board until you’re well balanced.

TAIL STALL

1. Fakie back and forth a few times in the mini and pump to maintain enough speed that your wheels almost touch the coping.

2. As you get to the apex of a forward pump and start coming down, pump hard enough that when you roll up the other side backward (fakie), your rear wheels will easily go over the coping. You don’t actually lap your board over the coping, but you will need this speed to do the tail stall.

3. When you approach the coping fast in a fakie direction, lift the front wheels just as your tail crosses over the coping. You don’t need to stall at first; just focus on tapping the tail against the coping. You’ll develop the true stall later.

4. Set the front wheels down hard against the transition and roll back down the transition forward.

NOSE STALL

REVERT

1. Pump a few times until you are midway up the transition. Keep your stance wide and stable. Approach the transition in a forward direction. (You can do fakie reverts later.)

2. As you reach the apex of your pump, rotate your head and shoulders in the direction you want to revert. Slide the front wheels around 180 degrees until they’re pointed back down the transition and roll away.

ROCK TO FAKIE

1. In your forward stance, roll toward the coping with enough speed to get your front wheels to lap over the coping and go onto the deck.

2. When you approach the coping, lift the front wheels so they clear the coping and come down onto the deck. You can also just roll your front wheels right over the coping, but it’s better form to lift the wheels. This practice will develop good habits and help keep you from hanging up as you come back in backward.

3. As your front wheels go over the coping, your board should become high-centered and “rock” on the lip. If the board goes way up onto the deck with the back trucks slamming against the coping on the transition side, you may want to bail and try again with a little less speed. You can improve your rock to fakie by pushing the board into this fully committed position later.

4. Pause here briefly and let your weight begin to come back into the transition. As you feel your body starting to go back down the transition, lift the weight off the nose end of the board a bit so it clears or rolls over the coping as it comes back in. The entire operation should take only a split second.

FAKIE ROCK

1. After coming out of your rock to fakie, pump hard to give yourself enough speed to roll halfway over the coping. (You should be moving backward.)

2. With your lead foot firmly on the nose, as you reach the coping lift the rear wheels up slightly so they go over onto the deck without touching it. Allow the tail of the board to come back down immediately on the other side so that the coping contacts the underside of the board.

3. Pause for a split second and allow your body to begin falling back into the transition. As you feel yourself coming back in and the board begins to move, lift the rear wheels again so they clear the coping. (This isn’t a nose manual but rather just a quick lift.) Even raising the rear wheels a little will remove enough weight from them that if they accidentally bounce over the coping it shouldn’t matter.

4. Roll down the transition forward and prepare for your next trick.

BACKSIDE ROCK AND ROLL

1. Approach the coping with the same amount of speed as you might for a rock to fakie. You’ll need enough speed to get the board over the coping so that the front is on the deck and the back end is still in the transition.

2. Before you reach the coping, rotate your shoulders so your chest is pointed toward your tail. This is the single most important motion your body must do. You’ll be turning backside, so rotate your torso in the direction your board will soon need to go.

3. Lift the nose slightly so it crosses the coping smoothly. Once the front wheels are past the coping, let the nose come down so that the front wheels rest on the deck. This is a very quick motion; you just want to quickly tap the front wheels to the deck. There is no stall to this trick, at least not at first.

4. Immediately lift the nose of the board up and bring it around in a backside 180. You may feel the rear wheels slide down the ramp as you bring the nose around. This is okay as long as you keep rotating.

5. As the front wheels come down, make your adjustments and roll away.

FRONTSIDE ROCK AND ROLL

1. Approach the coping with enough speed to get the front wheels easily up and over the coping. Try to get the board to lap up onto the coping a little bit. You may need a little more speed for the frontside rock than you would for a backside rock.

2. As you approach the coping, twist your shoulders deeply to your left (regular) or right (goofy) so that your back shoulder is almost over the nose. You need a lot of prerotation. More than any other trick, the twisting motion during the frontside rock is pretty extreme.

3. Lift the front wheels a bit so they easily clear the coping and quickly tap the wheels on the deck.

4. After tapping the deck, immediately lift the front wheels and bring them around in a frontside 180. This will feel as if the board is trying to catch up with your body. If your technique is reasonable, the board’s front end should come down right below your body mass.

5. Make any adjustments as you roll down the transition.

OLLIE TO FAKIE

1. Roll up the transition at a moderate speed but well below the coping. Position your feet in a wider than ordinary ollie stance so your lead foot is closer to the nose than if you were doing an ollie on flat.

2. Pop your ollie as usual. Use your lead foot to level the board out; don’t worry about trying to scoop the board.

3. Push the board hard into the transition so that all four wheels hit at the same time.

FAKIE OLLIE

1. Pump up to a comfortable height on the transition and get your feet into a good ollie stance. Unlike the ollie to fakie, you can probably put your lead foot nearer the middle of the board as if you were doing the ollie on flat ground.

2. Make sure you are well below the coping. As you near the apex of your pump, pop the tail down as for an ordinary ollie. The transition should rise up to meet your tail, so you should feel the pop earlier than you would on flat ground.

3. Scoop the board with your lead foot as much as you are comfortable. You will be landing on a downhill slope, so you will need to bring the nose of the board down farther than usual.

4. Land, roll away, reposition your feet, and prepare to do it again.

FRONTSIDE OLLIE

1. Pump up some speed by doing a series of frontside kickturns. Keep the board comfortably below the coping for now. Keep your line in a large looping pattern rather than going straight up and straight back down. The larger your turns across the transition the better.

2. When you are ready, move your lead foot over or slightly behind the front bolts. You want to be in a wide ollie stance. Since most of the ollie height will come from the curving transition, a large lead-foot scoop across your board won’t be necessary. The curvature of the ramp will be doing a lot of the work for you.

3. Roll up the transition at about a 45-degree angle, with your toes pointed toward the coping. Keep your weight lower on the transition so the board is riding a little higher than you.

4. While you are still moving forward at a reasonable speed, pop your ollie with a very small frontside rotation. You may not need any conscious effort to bring the board around frontside; you may do it naturally.

5. Land diagonally on the transition or as much pointing straight down the transition as you can.

BACKSIDE 50-50 STALL

1. Roll straight up the transition or at a slight backside angle, with enough speed to get your body weight fully onto the coping. Imagine you are going to roll on your board right up and stand on the coping perfectly.

2. As you near the coping, rotate your shoulders a bit so your chest is facing the coping. This is a tiny bit of prerotation to help get your body started into the backside turn.

3. As the front wheels pass the coping, do a 90-degree backside kickturn and drop the front trucks heavily onto the coping in one smooth motion. The back trucks should be resting, or locked, on the coping. You should now be standing on your board with the frontside wheels (or toe side) hanging over the coping in the ramp and the backside wheels (or heel side) on the deck.

4. Pause for as long as you need to until you start to feel your body fall back into the transition. If your body weight was not firmly planted on top of the coping, this may be right away. Conversely, if you had too much speed, you may need to take a foot off and plant it on the deck to regain your balance over the board.

5. Lift your front trucks off the coping and bring the wheels out over the transition. Your weight should bring the board out so it dips down in the ramp. Quickly plant the front wheels onto the transition under your body weight. The rear wheels should fall off the coping easily.

6. Roll away.

FRONTSIDE 50-50 STALL

1. Roll straight up the transition or at a slight frontside angle, with enough speed to get your body weight fully onto the coping. Imagine you are going to roll on your board right up and stand on the coping perfectly.

2. As the front wheels pass the coping, do a 90-degree frontside kickturn and drop the front trucks heavily down onto the coping in one smooth motion. This should be a 90-degree kickturn, with the back trucks resting, or locked, on the coping. You should now be standing on your board with the backside wheels (or heel side) hanging over the coping toward the transition and the frontside wheels (or toe side) on the deck.

3. Pause for as long as you need until you start to feel your body fall back into the transition. If your body weight was not firmly planted on top of the coping, this may be right away. Conversely, if you had too much speed, you may end up stepping onto the deck. If this happens (and it will lots of times), the trick is over. It’s better to approach the FS 50-50 in one smooth motion than to pick up where you stepped off.

4. Lift your front trucks off the coping and bring the wheels out over the transition. Your weight should bring the board out so it dips down into the transition. Quickly plant the front wheels onto the transition under your body weight. The rear wheels should fall off the coping easily.

5. Roll away.

5-0 STALL

1. Roll straight up the transition with enough speed to get your body all the way up onto the deck. As you near the lip, prerotate your body backside to help give it that extra spinning motion when you are on the coping.

2. As the front wheels cross the coping, do a 90-degree backside kickturn so you are facing the ramp. The nose of the board should rotate around with your body. Keep your balance over the rear trucks as if you were doing a slow 180 on flat ground. If you feel as if you are losing your balance, you can quickly set the front wheels down until you regain your stability.

3. As the nose crosses the coping and you are ready to drop back in, let your body weight begin to move back into the transition. Lead with your body and push the front wheels quickly into the transition. It may help to spring off your board just a little bit to get some weight off the rear wheels.

4. Roll down the transition and set up for your next trick.

PIVOT

1. Roll up the transition in a forward direction with a wide stance and enough speed to get the rear trucks onto the coping. You won’t want to get your full body weight onto the deck, as you might if you were trying a 5-0 stall, so try to keep your body weight within the ramp.

2. Lift your front wheels over the coping and let the board continue to roll up. Just as your rear trucks get to the coping, rotate the nose of the board out to the side so the rear trucks lock onto the coping just as it would in a 5-0 stall.

3. As soon as you feel the trucks on the coping in a stall, wait for your body weight to begin falling back into the transition. This should take just a split second. When you feel your body is moving back into the ramp, straighten the board slightly so the trucks pop off the coping. You should be moving backward into the ramp.

4. Ride the rear wheels into the ramp until the front wheels have cleared the coping. This takes some practice and timing and is truly the scariest part of this trick. The front wheels and trucks never touch the coping, deck, or any other part of the ramp.

5. When the front wheels are clear of the coping, set them down and roll away backward.

DISASTER

1. Start by rolling up the transition with enough speed to hit the coping. Position your feet in a wide ollie stance.

2. Prepare to spin by loading up your shoulders and bringing your lead shoulder (left if you’re regular, right if you’re goofy) toward your chest.

3. As you begin to pop your ollie, unload your shoulders to start your rotation. You will need to ollie up the transition slightly, so don’t wait until you are barely moving before you ollie. The ollie will need to be high enough for the rear wheels to clear the coping and land up on the deck.

4. Once the board is rotated and the tail end is across the coping, stomp the board and trap it against the coping. It shouldn’t matter if the board is at a bit of an angle or whether the tail wheels are way up on the deck or barely over the coping. You can make this trick look clean and smooth later. For now just concentrate on keeping the board under your center of gravity.

5. Once you have the board trapped in a rock position on the coping, you should have a second to make sure your footing is good and your balance is over your board. If it all feels good and your lead foot is more forward than your front trucks bolts, lean into the transition to start the board on its path back into the ramp. Coming back in from the disaster is exactly like coming in from a fakie rock.

6. As the rear wheels near the coping, lift the tail end of the board by pressing your nose slightly. It’s best if you can completely clear the rear wheels so they don’t touch the coping at all, but most people usually bonk over the coping on their way back in. It’s not as clean but works for lots of skaters.

7. Roll away with a smile.

BLUNT (TO FAKIE)

1. Roll straight up the transition with enough speed to get your rear wheels over the coping. Your stance should be wide and stable.

2. Lift the nose and push the rear wheels over the coping until they lock onto the deck side. The tail should slap against the coping on the transition side, with the board sticking up in the air. Keep your body weight off the top of the board so the board doesn’t roll up onto the deck; keep your tail against the transition below the coping. This is the big secret behind the blunt: Don’t put your body weight up on the coping.

3. Immediately after you feel the tail slap against the transition below the coping, pop the end of the tail against the transition. This will pop the nose of the board out toward you. The rear wheels should clear the coping. This is not an aggressive pop (like an ollie) but smaller. You want enough pop that the board rises up and away from the lip but not so much that it’s hard to control.

4. When the lower (rear) wheels are past the coping, press them into the transition. This will help you guide the rest of the board down the slope. Keep your weight favored on the lower end of the board so the higher wheels can clear the coping without touching it.

5. A second later when the nose wheels pass the coping set them down and roll away.

A Shortcut :

1. Instead of popping the tail against the transition and bringing the board downward, immediately push the nose of the board down onto the deck so the board falls into a rock. You will need to adjust your body weight a bit for this to work; instead of keeping your weight below the board and out over the transition, get your weight a little bit higher on the coping. The nose may dip down so that more of your board is on the rear wheels and the deck.

2. Pop the tail and try to bring the board down into a rock so the board is halfway on the deck and the tail end is out beyond the coping.

3. Roll your body weight back onto your tail end so the rear wheels contact the side of the transition and the board begins to slide back into the transition. The weight transfer during this motion is challenging, but if you have been working on rock to fakies with the rear trucks locked against the coping, then you should have this maneuver down easily.

4. As the front trucks near the coping, lift the wheels up and over so they don’t clip and stop the board. Put the front wheels back down as soon as they’re past the coping and over the transition. Roll away backward. You’ve just done a blunt to rock.