（058）2015/3/8：肯尼迪遇刺案背后一套尘封五十年的带血裙装
Leaves译 原文来源：纽约时报
On the plane back to Washington, in her pink Chanel suit, caked with her husband’s blood, Jackie Kennedy resisted all suggestions from aides that she clean herself up. Instead, she just said, “Let them see what they’ve done.”
在回华盛顿的飞机上，杰姬•肯尼迪穿的粉红色香奈儿套裙上凝结着她丈夫的血。助手建议她清理一下血迹，可她拒绝了，只说了句：“让他们看看自己的所作所为。”
But for the half century since John F. Kennedy’s assassination in Dallas on Nov. 22, 1963, the most famous artifact from that day, one of the most recognizable articles of clothing ever worn, has been seen by almost no one. Now preserved by the National Archives in a climate-controlled vault outside of Washington, it is subject to Kennedy family restrictions that it not be seen for almost a century more.
但是，1963年11月22日约翰•F•肯尼迪在达拉斯被刺杀后半个世纪以来，几乎没人见过那天那件最著名的物品，也很显然是被人穿过的衣物中最著名的之一。如今，它收藏在华盛顿郊外国家档案馆一个温控保险柜里。根据肯尼迪家族的限制性要求，它要再过几乎一个多世纪才会出现在众人眼前。
If there is a single item that captures both the shame and the violence that erupted that day, and the glamour and artifice that preceded it, it is Jackie Kennedy’s bloodstained pink suit, a tantalizing window on fame and fashion, her allure and her steely resolve, the things we know about her and the things we never quite will.
如果说有一件东西可以展现刺杀当天呈现出的耻辱和暴力，以及之前的美丽和精巧，那它正是杰姬•肯尼迪这件沾血的粉红色套裙。这是一扇窥一斑却无法见全貌的窗户，窗户对面是名声和时尚，是她的魅力和钢铁般的决心。关于她的这些，有的我们已经了解，有的则永远也无从知晓。
That Mrs. Kennedy is so closely linked to an item of clothing is fitting. In nearly three years as first lady, she had gained universal celebrity for her youthful style. Politically, it meant huge crowds whenever she accompanied the president. But for Mrs. Kennedy, who felt vulnerable, fashion gave her a sense of separation from the public’s gaze. It was armor.
肯尼迪夫人和一件衣物之间的联系是如此紧密，这倒也算恰如其分。在身为第一夫人的近三年时间中，她以青春的风格赢得了享誉全球的名望。从政治角度而言，这意味着不管什么时候和总统在一起，身边总是前拥后簇。但对于自我感觉易受伤害的肯尼迪夫人来说，时尚让她产生了一种与大众目光的分离之感。它成为了一件保护自己的盔甲。
So even on that day, before the horror of what ensued, to look at Mrs. Kennedy was to be drawn inevitably to the pink suit, a line-for-line copy of a classic cardigan-style Chanel with navy lapels. The suit came from Chez Ninon, a Park Avenue salon that created many of her clothes, following her taste for simple lines. She wore it at least six other times, including on a 1962 visit to London and that same year to greet the president of Algeria.
因此，即便是在刺杀当天，在那个恐怖的时刻来临之前，看着肯尼迪夫人，你会不可避免地被那件粉红色套裙所吸引。这件原版经典带藏青色翻领的开襟风格香奈儿套裙符合肯尼迪夫人对简线条的喜好，和她的许多衣服一样出自纽约公园大道的时装店切兹尼农（Chez Ninon）。在其它场合这件衣服她至少穿过6次，包括1962年出访伦敦和同年迎接阿尔及利亚总统。
Fifty years ago, at noon in Dallas, Clint Hill, who was the Secret Service agent assigned to Mrs. Kennedy, thought the pink suit looked fluorescent against the dark blue of the car carrying the president and the first lady.
当时受命保护肯尼迪太太的特勤人员克莱恩特•希尔认为，在五十年前达拉斯那个中午，在载着总统和第一夫人那辆深蓝色汽车的映衬下，这件粉红色套裙看上去 闪闪发光。
“She stood out so much in the car because of the color of that suit,” said Mr. Hill, who has released a new account of the killing, “Five Days in November,” in time for the anniversary. “It was like the sun just illuminated it.”
在肯尼迪遇刺五十周年之际，希尔在《十一月的五天》一书中围绕刺杀事件作出了一番新的说明。他说：“因为那件套裙，她在车中显得特别显眼，看上去就像是阳光将它照得异常明亮。”
Now preserved in its vault, the pink suit and its accessories, still stained, the stockings blood-powdered and folded in a white towel, remain essentially unchanged from the day of the assassination. Only the outfit’s matching pillbox hat and white kid gloves are missing, lost in the chaos of that day.
现在，保存在保险柜里的这件套裙和它的配饰依然带着血，和总统被刺那天基本上未发生变化。她那天穿的长筒袜叠在白色毛巾里，上面的血凝结成块。在那天的混乱中，只有配套的筒帽和白色羊皮手套丢失不见了。
Although the National Archives has kept the suit and accessories, including navy shoes, bag and navy blouse, since 1964, when they arrived in a dress box, the items legally belonged after her death to Caroline Kennedy as her mother’s surviving heir. So a deed of gift was made in 2003 with the provision that the suit would not be seen by the public until 2103. Through her office, Ms. Kennedy declined to comment.
1964年，那套衣服和包括藏青色鞋、包和藏青色宽松衫在内的配饰装在一个衣箱中抵达国家档案馆。尽管从那时开始档案馆就保管着它们，但自肯尼迪夫人去世后，从法律上来讲这些物品属于她女儿、在世的继承人卡洛琳•肯尼迪。因此，2003年，后者将它作为礼物赠送给档案馆，条件是直到2103年这套衣服才能公之于众。我们打通了肯尼迪女士办公室的电话，但她拒绝就此事置评。
Over the years, the Kennedy family has sought to avoid the sensational treatment of assassination artifacts, and that is the explicit intent of the 100-year restriction. Nonetheless, Martha Murphy, chief of special access at the archives, said Mrs. Kennedy’s clothes are the only items in the assassination collection with this specific restriction.
多年来，肯尼迪家族都避免在处理刺杀案相关物品时引发轰动，100年限制的用意正在于此。然而，档案馆“特别获取”部负责人马萨•墨菲称在总统遇刺案的所有物品中，唯一存在这一明确限制的只有肯尼迪夫人的这套裙装。
By comparison, scholars and researchers who meet special criteria of the archives may view President Kennedy’s clothing and the rifle used by Lee Harvey Oswald. To the best of anyone’s knowledge, access to Mrs. Kennedy’s suit for research purposes has never been granted.
对比之下，符合档案馆特殊要求的学者和研究人员可以查看肯尼迪总统当天穿的衣服和凶手李•哈维•奥斯瓦尔德用的来复枪。据大家所知，以研究为目的查看肯尼迪夫人裙装的要求从未获得同意。
After Mrs. Kennedy returned to the White House, early on Nov. 23, her clothing was put in a bag, presumably by her personal maid, Providencia Paredes, and soon after placed in a dress box. Records show that it arrived at the archives sometime before July 1964, accompanied by an unsigned note on the stationery of Mrs. Kennedy’s mother, Janet Auchincloss.
11月23日早晨肯尼迪夫人回到白宫时，那套衣服被放到了包里，放的人可能是她的贴身女佣普罗维登西亚•帕雷德斯。不久后又转移到了一个衣箱里。记录显示衣箱在1964年7月前的某个时间到达档案馆，一同送过来的还有一张未签名的便条，写在肯尼迪太太母亲珍妮特•奥金克洛斯的信笺上。
The note simply said: “Jackie’s suite and bag — worn November 22, 1963.” It is unknown whether Mrs. Auchincloss made the decision to send the clothes to the archives or, as many believe, was following her daughter’s wishes. Ms. Paredes, in an interview, said the suit was at first sent to Mrs. Auchincloss’s home in Georgetown, but she is confident Mrs. Kennedy would have made the decision on where to send it. “Nobody would have made that decision for her,” she said.
便条上只写了这么一句话：“杰姬的套裙和包——穿于1963年11月22日。”决定将衣服送到档案馆的是奥金克洛斯夫人，还是如很多人认为的那样是她女儿的医院，这一点不得而知。帕雷德斯女士在一次采访中称，一开始那套裙装被送到了奥金克洛斯夫人位于乔治城的家里，但自己确信决定将它送到什么地方的是肯尼迪夫人。“没人会为她做那个决定。”她说。
The Kennedy family never advised the archives about cleaning the suit, Ms. Murphy said, although leaving blood and other residue on garments is a standard conservation practice. “It’s part of the history of the object,” said Phyllis Magidson, curator of costume and textiles at the Museum of the City of New York. Ms. Murphy, who has seen the suit, said it essentially looks brand-new.
墨菲说，肯尼迪家族从来没有建议档案馆清理那套裙装，但将血迹和其它残留物留在衣物上是标准的档案保存办法。纽约市博物馆负责道具服和纺织服的策馆人菲利斯•麦吉德森说：“这是物品历史的一部分。”而已经见过裙装的墨菲说它看上去基本上还是崭新的。
For all Mrs. Kennedy’s visibility, it seems fitting that her pink suit should be hidden from view.
尽管肯尼迪太太的关注度很高，但对于她那件粉红色裙装来说，深藏于大家的视线之外似乎才是恰当的做法。
“She certainly understood invisibility and disappearance very deeply, as well as staged appearance,” said the cultural critic Wayne Koestenbaum, author of “Jackie Under My Skin: Interpreting an Icon.” “So the unseen suit is a very poignant and accurate emblem of her contradiction.”
“对于人走茶凉和烟消云散，还有登台露面，她无疑都有很深的理解。”文化评论家、《我内心深处的杰姬：诠释偶像》一书的作者说，“因此，这件大家看不到的裙装就是个非常鲜活和精准的象征，代表了她的这种矛盾心理。”
And noting that Mrs. Kennedy’s interest in historic preservation adds another facet to the suit’s status, Ms. Magidson said, “It has everything encapsulated within it.”
麦吉德森指出，肯尼迪夫人对文物保护的兴趣使那套裙装多了一层身份，她说：“一切尽在其中。”
Curators cannot think of another historical garment imbued with more meaning, and also deemed too sensitive to be shown. Among items of apparel with similar resonance are garments worn in concentration camps and the tatters that remained after the atomic blasts in Japan. But these objects, while deeply affecting, are displayed in museums. Other examples mentioned by curators include Napoleon’s death coat, a shoe dropped by Marie Antoinette on the way to the guillotine and the suit and cloak Abraham Lincoln was wearing when he was assassinated.
策馆人无法想象，有哪件历史衣物比这套裙装蕴含更多的意义，并且同样因过于敏感而不能在人前展示。集中营里被关押的人穿过的衣服以及日本遭原子弹轰炸后残留下的那些破破烂烂的衣物具有类似的特殊意义。这些物品虽然令人深深动容，但却陈列在博物馆中。策馆人还提到了其它一些例子，包括拿破仑死时穿的衣服，玛丽•安托瓦内特被送上断头台时掉落的一只鞋，以及亚伯拉罕•林肯遇刺时穿的套装和斗篷。
But when Lincoln was alive, relatively few Americans knew what he looked like. Besides, his image, even if it had been familiar, would hardly have compared to Mrs. Kennedy’s riveting beauty and pop culture celebrity. She was, as Norman Mailer said in a 1962 essay critical of her televised tour of the White House, “an institution being put together before our eyes.”
但在林肯生前，相对很少有美国人知道他的相貌。此外，尽管他的形象已经为人所熟识，但和肯尼迪夫人惊艳的美貌以及她在流行文化中的知名度没有办法相提并论。1962年，诺曼•梅勒著文抨击她那次通过电视直播参观白宫，称她是“一个在我们眼皮底下拼凑起来的名人。”
For that reason, combined with the fixation on President Kennedy’s assassination and a charged media culture, most experts believe that displaying her suit would be problematic. “It would produce hysteria if it were placed on view,” Ms. Magidson said.
出于这个原因，以及公众对肯尼迪总统遇刺案的执着探究和一惊一乍的媒体文化，大多数专家认为将那套裙装陈列出来会造成问题。麦吉德森说：“如果将它展览出来，会造成很多人歇斯底里。”
Those who knew her say it is almost certain that Mrs. Kennedy played a role in nearly every step of the suit’s journey from Manhattan dress shop to Dallas, and eventually to the vault.
认识肯尼迪太太的人都说，从曼哈顿服装店到达拉斯、最终到那个保险柜，这套裙装前世今生的每个阶段她几乎肯定都在其中发挥着作用。
She was a woman of meticulous organizational skills, who dictated to her White House secretary, Mary Barelli Gallagher, from her bed, and who dogged people with her morning memos. (Arthur M. Schlesinger Jr. once likened them to Churchill’s “Action This Day” memos during World War II.)
这位有着细致组织能力的女性还没起床就打电话向他的白宫秘书玛丽•贝莱莉•加拉赫发号施令，她一大早发出的指示使其他人深受困扰。（小阿瑟•M•施莱辛格有一次将它们比作丘吉尔在二战期间作出的“本日行动”指示。）
Ms. Gallagher’s 1969 memoir, “My Life with Jacqueline Kennedy” makes a good companion to “The Death of a President,” by William Manchester, the one book on the assassination commissioned by the Kennedys. Loaded with details about Mrs. Kennedy’s work and personal habits, Ms. Gallagher’s memoir is sort of a backstairs view of the noble purposes that Mr. Manchester ascribes to her.
施莱辛格1969年写的回忆录《我和杰奎琳•肯尼迪在一起的岁月》和威廉•曼彻斯特写的《总统之死》相得益彰。后一本关于遇刺案的书获得了肯尼迪家族的授权，曼彻斯特在书中称赞肯尼迪夫人具有崇高的目标。施莱辛格的回忆录中存在大量肯尼迪夫人工作和个人习惯的细节，可以从另一个侧面对那些赞誉进行审度。
For instance, he referred to Mrs. Kennedy as a “retiring” socialite who was transformed by loss, “a new Jackie.” But he did not consider that maybe the skills and determination that she used to hunt down clothes and furniture were the same qualities she magisterially deployed after the assassination.
例如，他将肯尼迪夫人称为一位“甘居幕后”的社交名人，丈夫的亡故使她变成了“一个新杰姬”。但他没有想过，可能她用来搜集衣服、家具的能力和决心与她在丈夫遇刺后表现出来的威严真是同一种品质。
And what about her stony refusal to change her clothes? Though describing White House duties, Ms. Gallagher offered many instances where Mrs. Kennedy had no compunction about saying no. She wrote, “If she didn’t want to participate in some activity, nothing could drive her to it.”
还有，为什么她拒绝换这件衣服时表现得如磐石般坚决？尽管施莱辛格在书中描述的是白宫的职责，但同样好几次提到，肯尼迪夫人没有对说不后悔过。她写道：“如果她不想参加一些活动，任谁也无法逼迫她。”
The Manchester book described President Kennedy taking an unusual interest in what his wife planned to wear on the Texas trip, something he had never done in their marriage. He said to her, Mr. Manchester reported, “Be simple — show these Texans what good taste really is.”
曼彻斯特的那本书写道，肯尼迪在德州之旅对妻子打算穿的衣服产生了异乎寻常的浓厚兴趣，他们结婚后从来没发生过这种事。曼彻斯特称，他告诉她“穿得简单点——给这些德州人瞧瞧什么是真正的品味。”
Ms. Paredes, though not disputing the account, gives less significance to it: “Maybe the president told her to wear the suit. I don’t think she gave it a thought. It was a practical suit to travel in.”
尽管帕雷迪斯没有反对这种说法，但她觉得此事不足挂齿：“也许是总统让她穿那件套裙的，我觉得她都没想过这事，那件套裙在旅行的时候穿很实用。”
She added, “I did pack a lot of clothes for her, because you never know about the weather. The president called me on the phone. It was the last time I spoke to him. He said, ‘You know, it’s going to be hot in Texas.’ ”
她补充道：“我确实给她整理了不少衣服，因为你永远猜不透天气。总统给我打了电话。这是我最后一次跟他说话。他说：‘你懂的，德克萨斯会很热。”
On the plane back to Washington, in her pink Chanel suit, caked with her husband’s blood, Jackie Kennedy resisted all suggestions from aides that she clean herself up. Instead, she just said, “Let them see what they’ve done.”
在回华盛顿的飞机上，杰姬•肯尼迪穿的粉红色香奈儿套裙上凝结着她丈夫的血。助手建议她清理一下血迹，可她拒绝了，只说了句：“让他们看看自己的所作所为。”
But for the half century since John F. Kennedy’s assassination in Dallas on Nov. 22, 1963, the most famous artifact from that day, one of the most recognizable articles of clothing ever worn, has been seen by almost no one. Now preserved by the National Archives in a climate-controlled vault outside of Washington, it is subject to Kennedy family restrictions that it not be seen for almost a century more.
但是，1963年11月22日约翰•F•肯尼迪在达拉斯被刺杀后半个世纪以来，几乎没人见过那天那件最著名的物品，也很显然是被人穿过的衣物中最著名的之一。如今，它收藏在华盛顿郊外国家档案馆一个温控保险柜里。根据肯尼迪家族的限制性要求，它要再过几乎一个多世纪才会出现在众人眼前。
If there is a single item that captures both the shame and the violence that erupted that day, and the glamour and artifice that preceded it, it is Jackie Kennedy’s bloodstained pink suit, a tantalizing window on fame and fashion, her allure and her steely resolve, the things we know about her and the things we never quite will.
如果说有一件东西可以展现刺杀当天呈现出的耻辱和暴力，以及之前的美丽和精巧，那它正是杰姬•肯尼迪这件沾血的粉红色套裙。这是一扇窥一斑却无法见全貌的窗户，窗户对面是名声和时尚，是她的魅力和钢铁般的决心。关于她的这些，有的我们已经了解，有的则永远也无从知晓。
That Mrs. Kennedy is so closely linked to an item of clothing is fitting. In nearly three years as first lady, she had gained universal celebrity for her youthful style. Politically, it meant huge crowds whenever she accompanied the president. But for Mrs. Kennedy, who felt vulnerable, fashion gave her a sense of separation from the public’s gaze. It was armor.
肯尼迪夫人和一件衣物之间的联系是如此紧密，这倒也算恰如其分。在身为第一夫人的近三年时间中，她以青春的风格赢得了享誉全球的名望。从政治角度而言，这意味着不管什么时候和总统在一起，身边总是前拥后簇。但对于自我感觉易受伤害的肯尼迪夫人来说，时尚让她产生了一种与大众目光的分离之感。它成为了一件保护自己的盔甲。
So even on that day, before the horror of what ensued, to look at Mrs. Kennedy was to be drawn inevitably to the pink suit, a line-for-line copy of a classic cardigan-style Chanel with navy lapels. The suit came from Chez Ninon, a Park Avenue salon that created many of her clothes, following her taste for simple lines. She wore it at least six other times, including on a 1962 visit to London and that same year to greet the president of Algeria.
因此，即便是在刺杀当天，在那个恐怖的时刻来临之前，看着肯尼迪夫人，你会不可避免地被那件粉红色套裙所吸引。这件原版经典带藏青色翻领的开襟风格香奈儿套裙符合肯尼迪夫人对简线条的喜好，和她的许多衣服一样出自纽约公园大道的时装店切兹尼农（Chez Ninon）。在其它场合这件衣服她至少穿过6次，包括1962年出访伦敦和同年迎接阿尔及利亚总统。
Fifty years ago, at noon in Dallas, Clint Hill, who was the Secret Service agent assigned to Mrs. Kennedy, thought the pink suit looked fluorescent against the dark blue of the car carrying the president and the first lady.
当时受命保护肯尼迪太太的特勤人员克莱恩特•希尔认为，在五十年前达拉斯那个中午，在载着总统和第一夫人那辆深蓝色汽车的映衬下，这件粉红色套裙看上去 闪闪发光。
“She stood out so much in the car because of the color of that suit,” said Mr. Hill, who has released a new account of the killing, “Five Days in November,” in time for the anniversary. “It was like the sun just illuminated it.”
在肯尼迪遇刺五十周年之际，希尔在《十一月的五天》一书中围绕刺杀事件作出了一番新的说明。他说：“因为那件套裙，她在车中显得特别显眼，看上去就像是阳光将它照得异常明亮。”
Now preserved in its vault, the pink suit and its accessories, still stained, the stockings blood-powdered and folded in a white towel, remain essentially unchanged from the day of the assassination. Only the outfit’s matching pillbox hat and white kid gloves are missing, lost in the chaos of that day.
现在，保存在保险柜里的这件套裙和它的配饰依然带着血，和总统被刺那天基本上未发生变化。她那天穿的长筒袜叠在白色毛巾里，上面的血凝结成块。在那天的混乱中，只有配套的筒帽和白色羊皮手套丢失不见了。
Although the National Archives has kept the suit and accessories, including navy shoes, bag and navy blouse, since 1964, when they arrived in a dress box, the items legally belonged after her death to Caroline Kennedy as her mother’s surviving heir. So a deed of gift was made in 2003 with the provision that the suit would not be seen by the public until 2103. Through her office, Ms. Kennedy declined to comment.
1964年，那套衣服和包括藏青色鞋、包和藏青色宽松衫在内的配饰装在一个衣箱中抵达国家档案馆。尽管从那时开始档案馆就保管着它们，但自肯尼迪夫人去世后，从法律上来讲这些物品属于她女儿、在世的继承人卡洛琳•肯尼迪。因此，2003年，后者将它作为礼物赠送给档案馆，条件是直到2103年这套衣服才能公之于众。我们打通了肯尼迪女士办公室的电话，但她拒绝就此事置评。
Over the years, the Kennedy family has sought to avoid the sensational treatment of assassination artifacts, and that is the explicit intent of the 100-year restriction. Nonetheless, Martha Murphy, chief of special access at the archives, said Mrs. Kennedy’s clothes are the only items in the assassination collection with this specific restriction.
多年来，肯尼迪家族都避免在处理刺杀案相关物品时引发轰动，100年限制的用意正在于此。然而，档案馆“特别获取”部负责人马萨•墨菲称在总统遇刺案的所有物品中，唯一存在这一明确限制的只有肯尼迪夫人的这套裙装。
By comparison, scholars and researchers who meet special criteria of the archives may view President Kennedy’s clothing and the rifle used by Lee Harvey Oswald. To the best of anyone’s knowledge, access to Mrs. Kennedy’s suit for research purposes has never been granted.
对比之下，符合档案馆特殊要求的学者和研究人员可以查看肯尼迪总统当天穿的衣服和凶手李•哈维•奥斯瓦尔德用的来复枪。据大家所知，以研究为目的查看肯尼迪夫人裙装的要求从未获得同意。
After Mrs. Kennedy returned to the White House, early on Nov. 23, her clothing was put in a bag, presumably by her personal maid, Providencia Paredes, and soon after placed in a dress box. Records show that it arrived at the archives sometime before July 1964, accompanied by an unsigned note on the stationery of Mrs. Kennedy’s mother, Janet Auchincloss.
11月23日早晨肯尼迪夫人回到白宫时，那套衣服被放到了包里，放的人可能是她的贴身女佣普罗维登西亚•帕雷德斯。不久后又转移到了一个衣箱里。记录显示衣箱在1964年7月前的某个时间到达档案馆，一同送过来的还有一张未签名的便条，写在肯尼迪太太母亲珍妮特•奥金克洛斯的信笺上。
The note simply said: “Jackie’s suite and bag — worn November 22, 1963.” It is unknown whether Mrs. Auchincloss made the decision to send the clothes to the archives or, as many believe, was following her daughter’s wishes. Ms. Paredes, in an interview, said the suit was at first sent to Mrs. Auchincloss’s home in Georgetown, but she is confident Mrs. Kennedy would have made the decision on where to send it. “Nobody would have made that decision for her,” she said.
便条上只写了这么一句话：“杰姬的套裙和包——穿于1963年11月22日。”决定将衣服送到档案馆的是奥金克洛斯夫人，还是如很多人认为的那样是她女儿的医院，这一点不得而知。帕雷德斯女士在一次采访中称，一开始那套裙装被送到了奥金克洛斯夫人位于乔治城的家里，但自己确信决定将它送到什么地方的是肯尼迪夫人。“没人会为她做那个决定。”她说。
The Kennedy family never advised the archives about cleaning the suit, Ms. Murphy said, although leaving blood and other residue on garments is a standard conservation practice. “It’s part of the history of the object,” said Phyllis Magidson, curator of costume and textiles at the Museum of the City of New York. Ms. Murphy, who has seen the suit, said it essentially looks brand-new.
墨菲说，肯尼迪家族从来没有建议档案馆清理那套裙装，但将血迹和其它残留物留在衣物上是标准的档案保存办法。纽约市博物馆负责道具服和纺织服的策馆人菲利斯•麦吉德森说：“这是物品历史的一部分。”而已经见过裙装的墨菲说它看上去基本上还是崭新的。
For all Mrs. Kennedy’s visibility, it seems fitting that her pink suit should be hidden from view.
尽管肯尼迪太太的关注度很高，但对于她那件粉红色裙装来说，深藏于大家的视线之外似乎才是恰当的做法。
“She certainly understood invisibility and disappearance very deeply, as well as staged appearance,” said the cultural critic Wayne Koestenbaum, author of “Jackie Under My Skin: Interpreting an Icon.” “So the unseen suit is a very poignant and accurate emblem of her contradiction.”
“对于人走茶凉和烟消云散，还有登台露面，她无疑都有很深的理解。”文化评论家、《我内心深处的杰姬：诠释偶像》一书的作者说，“因此，这件大家看不到的裙装就是个非常鲜活和精准的象征，代表了她的这种矛盾心理。”
And noting that Mrs. Kennedy’s interest in historic preservation adds another facet to the suit’s status, Ms. Magidson said, “It has everything encapsulated within it.”
麦吉德森指出，肯尼迪夫人对文物保护的兴趣使那套裙装多了一层身份，她说：“一切尽在其中。”
Curators cannot think of another historical garment imbued with more meaning, and also deemed too sensitive to be shown. Among items of apparel with similar resonance are garments worn in concentration camps and the tatters that remained after the atomic blasts in Japan. But these objects, while deeply affecting, are displayed in museums. Other examples mentioned by curators include Napoleon’s death coat, a shoe dropped by Marie Antoinette on the way to the guillotine and the suit and cloak Abraham Lincoln was wearing when he was assassinated.
策馆人无法想象，有哪件历史衣物比这套裙装蕴含更多的意义，并且同样因过于敏感而不能在人前展示。集中营里被关押的人穿过的衣服以及日本遭原子弹轰炸后残留下的那些破破烂烂的衣物具有类似的特殊意义。这些物品虽然令人深深动容，但却陈列在博物馆中。策馆人还提到了其它一些例子，包括拿破仑死时穿的衣服，玛丽•安托瓦内特被送上断头台时掉落的一只鞋，以及亚伯拉罕•林肯遇刺时穿的套装和斗篷。
But when Lincoln was alive, relatively few Americans knew what he looked like. Besides, his image, even if it had been familiar, would hardly have compared to Mrs. Kennedy’s riveting beauty and pop culture celebrity. She was, as Norman Mailer said in a 1962 essay critical of her televised tour of the White House, “an institution being put together before our eyes.”
但在林肯生前，相对很少有美国人知道他的相貌。此外，尽管他的形象已经为人所熟识，但和肯尼迪夫人惊艳的美貌以及她在流行文化中的知名度没有办法相提并论。1962年，诺曼•梅勒著文抨击她那次通过电视直播参观白宫，称她是“一个在我们眼皮底下拼凑起来的名人。”
For that reason, combined with the fixation on President Kennedy’s assassination and a charged media culture, most experts believe that displaying her suit would be problematic. “It would produce hysteria if it were placed on view,” Ms. Magidson said.
出于这个原因，以及公众对肯尼迪总统遇刺案的执着探究和一惊一乍的媒体文化，大多数专家认为将那套裙装陈列出来会造成问题。麦吉德森说：“如果将它展览出来，会造成很多人歇斯底里。”
Those who knew her say it is almost certain that Mrs. Kennedy played a role in nearly every step of the suit’s journey from Manhattan dress shop to Dallas, and eventually to the vault.
认识肯尼迪太太的人都说，从曼哈顿服装店到达拉斯、最终到那个保险柜，这套裙装前世今生的每个阶段她几乎肯定都在其中发挥着作用。
She was a woman of meticulous organizational skills, who dictated to her White House secretary, Mary Barelli Gallagher, from her bed, and who dogged people with her morning memos. (Arthur M. Schlesinger Jr. once likened them to Churchill’s “Action This Day” memos during World War II.)
这位有着细致组织能力的女性还没起床就打电话向他的白宫秘书玛丽•贝莱莉•加拉赫发号施令，她一大早发出的指示使其他人深受困扰。（小阿瑟•M•施莱辛格有一次将它们比作丘吉尔在二战期间作出的“本日行动”指示。）
Ms. Gallagher’s 1969 memoir, “My Life with Jacqueline Kennedy” makes a good companion to “The Death of a President,” by William Manchester, the one book on the assassination commissioned by the Kennedys. Loaded with details about Mrs. Kennedy’s work and personal habits, Ms. Gallagher’s memoir is sort of a backstairs view of the noble purposes that Mr. Manchester ascribes to her.
施莱辛格1969年写的回忆录《我和杰奎琳•肯尼迪在一起的岁月》和威廉•曼彻斯特写的《总统之死》相得益彰。后一本关于遇刺案的书获得了肯尼迪家族的授权，曼彻斯特在书中称赞肯尼迪夫人具有崇高的目标。施莱辛格的回忆录中存在大量肯尼迪夫人工作和个人习惯的细节，可以从另一个侧面对那些赞誉进行审度。
For instance, he referred to Mrs. Kennedy as a “retiring” socialite who was transformed by loss, “a new Jackie.” But he did not consider that maybe the skills and determination that she used to hunt down clothes and furniture were the same qualities she magisterially deployed after the assassination.
例如，他将肯尼迪夫人称为一位“甘居幕后”的社交名人，丈夫的亡故使她变成了“一个新杰姬”。但他没有想过，可能她用来搜集衣服、家具的能力和决心与她在丈夫遇刺后表现出来的威严真是同一种品质。
And what about her stony refusal to change her clothes? Though describing White House duties, Ms. Gallagher offered many instances where Mrs. Kennedy had no compunction about saying no. She wrote, “If she didn’t want to participate in some activity, nothing could drive her to it.”
还有，为什么她拒绝换这件衣服时表现得如磐石般坚决？尽管施莱辛格在书中描述的是白宫的职责，但同样好几次提到，肯尼迪夫人没有对说不后悔过。她写道：“如果她不想参加一些活动，任谁也无法逼迫她。”
The Manchester book described President Kennedy taking an unusual interest in what his wife planned to wear on the Texas trip, something he had never done in their marriage. He said to her, Mr. Manchester reported, “Be simple — show these Texans what good taste really is.”
曼彻斯特的那本书写道，肯尼迪在德州之旅对妻子打算穿的衣服产生了异乎寻常的浓厚兴趣，他们结婚后从来没发生过这种事。曼彻斯特称，他告诉她“穿得简单点——给这些德州人瞧瞧什么是真正的品味。”
Ms. Paredes, though not disputing the account, gives less significance to it: “Maybe the president told her to wear the suit. I don’t think she gave it a thought. It was a practical suit to travel in.”
尽管帕雷迪斯没有反对这种说法，但她觉得此事不足挂齿：“也许是总统让她穿那件套裙的，我觉得她都没想过这事，那件套裙在旅行的时候穿很实用。”
She added, “I did pack a lot of clothes for her, because you never know about the weather. The president called me on the phone. It was the last time I spoke to him. He said, ‘You know, it’s going to be hot in Texas.’ ”
她补充道：“我确实给她整理了不少衣服，因为你永远猜不透天气。总统给我打了电话。这是我最后一次跟他说话。他说：‘你懂的，德克萨斯会很热。”
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