BC的塞舌尔游记（外加本人拙翻）
看得懂的看英文，BC的文笔堪比行文典范，很值得看的。看不懂的将就看看翻译吧，别太挑刺，只有这水平……
Benedict Cumberbatch
25 Nov 2011
本尼迪克特 康伯巴奇 2011年11月25日
Nestled off the coast of East Africa, the Seychelles lie firmly within the tropics, jewels of green in an otherwise aquamarine expanse of Indian Ocean. They are famed for their beautiful beaches; the white sand, palm trees and rounded black granite rocks make the islands the very definition of paradise. And once I heard that this was the destination of choice for Wills and Kate's honeymoon... well, how could I argue with royalty?
坐落在东非海岸的塞舌尔，正好位于热带地区，就如同绵延湛蓝的印度洋上一颗绿宝石般美丽。这里以美丽的海滩而颇负盛名。那白色的沙滩、随处可见的棕榈树和环绕四周深黑的花岗岩，都让这座小岛变成了名副其实的天堂。并且我曾经还听说这里可是威尔王子和凯特王妃蜜月之旅的目的地呢。噢，好吧，我又怎么能与皇室争夺这么美丽的地方呢。
Approaching the island, I found myself doing my best Lord Attenborough impression: 'Welcome to Jurassic Park!' The darker ocean gives way to the sparkling turquoise of the shoreline and the famed white beaches, behind which endless tropical vegetation stretches back to the foothills of immense granite mountains. The sight was intoxicating. In the early morning the first thing that hit me was the humidity and smell, both alien and alluring, areminder (as if I needed one) that I really was far from home.
触碰到岛屿的那一瞬间，我就如同是被阿滕伯勒伯爵引领着走进侏罗纪公园最痴迷的爱好者，仿佛他正对我说：“欢迎来到侏罗纪公园”。绵延无尽的热带植被与巨大的花岗岩石山之间铺陈着宝绿色般的海岸线和那名满天下的白色沙滩，在它们绝美的映射之下，精黑色的海洋都只能退居第二。真是美景不醉人自醉。第二天一大早，那醉人又陌生的湿润气息弄醒了我，似乎是在提醒我已离家很远了（看来我真的需要这个提醒）。
My hillside pool villa at the Banyan Tree Seychelles resort on the south-west coast of the island of Mahé opened on to a decked terrace with an infinity plunge pool and Jacuzzi, all perched on top of the rocks and surrounded by trees, with an uninterrupted view over the ocean. Through a shuttered sliding door lay a bathroom with a sunken tub perfectly positioned for a romantic stargazing bath for two. Everything in the resort was geared for honeymoon levels of
smooching romance. I quickly learned a basic but crucial lesson: never come to paradise alone.
我在位于马埃岛西南海岸的塞舌尔悦榕庄度假村定了一套建于山坡上并带泳池的别墅，别墅的双层露台上有一个跳水池和按摩浴缸。别墅位于层峦叠嶂的石山之上，四周尽是绿树丛荫。展眼望去，视野开阔，大海呈现眼前。穿过一道百叶推拉门帘，是一间浴室，浴室里横陈着一个叹为观止的双人观星式浴缸。浴缸的下沉式设计造型完美，充盈着无与伦比的浪漫气息。这个度假村里的一切都比照了蜜月式，以一种罗曼蒂克的风格来设计。我很快便懂了一个基础浅显但至关重要的道理：永远都别独自一人来天堂。
Anything you could possibly need, from maps, to guides, car hire, a doctor,
suggested evening hangouts and excursions, the resort staff will happily arrange.But you won't want to venture far without first trying the epic breakfasts (every type of fruit, juice, pastry, cold meat, cooked breakfast, curry and local speciality you can imagine). The
main reason I was in the Seychelles was for some serious R and R, so my first appointment was for a signature Thai massage. Reclining, post-treatment on the spa veranda as the sun set was one of those moments of tranquillity where I couldn't believe my luck. Then, as if it couldn't have got any better, I saw my first fruit bat. Those things are prehistorically big: 'Welcome to Jurassic park... again!' Suddenly, the air seemed to fill with 'flyingfoxes' as they are known locally, waking up for their evening feeding session - and later providing the vital service of shitting all over the islands, therefore ensuring plant dispersement.
任何可能会用到的东西，不管是地图、导游，租车、看医生，或是找适合晚上娱乐的地方、进行短途旅行，这个度假村里的员工都将热情地为你安排好一切。但在首次品尝这里绝美无比的早餐之前你一定不会想去其他地方（各种口味的水果、果汁、糕点、冷鲜肉、熟食早餐、咖喱和你所想象得到的各种当地特产）。我留在塞舌尔是因为好几个重要的原因。所以我一住下来第一件事就是签字订了一次泰式按摩。当我躺在阳台上接受按摩的时候，太阳正落山，宁静的氛围充斥里外，能碰上这样安宁的时刻做按摩，我觉得自己的运气好极了。突然，似乎为了证实我今夜的运气实在是好的不能再好了，我第一次看见了果蝠。这种动物长得超级巨大，我仿佛又听见了：“再次…欢迎来到侏罗纪公园”！不一会儿，空中便挤满了当地人所熟知的“飞天狐狸”，它们醒来准备摄取丰盛的晚餐，饭后果蝠们又向整座岛提供了重要的排泄物，只有这样，才能滋润岛上的植物，保证它们的繁茂。
As the stars rose I drifted down to the beach for a swim in a haze of post-massage calm.As I bobbed around, some of the bats broke off for a dip in the sea. Surrounded by all this magic I did a length of the bay and by the time I stepped out of the shallows the bioluminescence of tiny plankton lit up every movement of my body through the water. It's
impossible to do the experience justice in words but it was one that I repeated most
evenings. I rounded off the day with dinner at one of the three in-house restaurants. It
was fish night, with scallops, bouillabaisse, and job fish (a filling, fleshy fish) on the menu, followed by white chocolate parfait with passion fruit jelly, raspberry jus and dark chocolate. Out of this world and reasonably priced.
夜沉星移，全身上下充满着做完按摩后的平静与安心，我慢悠悠地游荡到沙滩上在一片迷蒙的雾霭中游起了泳。正当我游来游去的时候，有几只蝙蝠俯冲到海里也想来浸一口这美丽的海水。被这迷幻般的气氛包围着，我心血来潮，游到了海湾那边。正当我游出阴影所覆盖的海域时，微小的浮游生物在海水四处泛起了光芒，穿过海水，点亮了我全身，我做什么动作都一览无余。这种神奇的感受有多么美妙我真的无法用语言来形容，我只知道大部分的晚上我都来这儿游泳。度假村内有三个内部饭店，我这天在这里用了晚餐，以结束这美妙的一天。看来这是一个能尽情享用海鲜的夜晚，餐厅里的菜单上有扇贝、鱼汤、还有工勤鱼（就是一种填充式的肉质鱼）。而饭后点心则是加了百香果果冻的牛奶巧克力蛋糕，覆盆子和黑巧克力。这种美味乃世间难寻，且物廉价美。
I was keen to get my flippers on. even though I had been told that a particularly hot El Niño in the 1990s had done substantial damage to the sea life and coral. But I wanted to find out for myself, so the following morning, having overslept, I rushed off with a Tupperware container of breakfast (the smiling resourcefulness of the dining staff was one of the best aspects of my stay). With my Panama hat and Hawaiian shirt, I was a cliché of the hapless Brit abroad, so no wonder a loitering man who looked like a well-tanned walrus gave a smoky laugh: 'Didn't want to you miss your breakfast, then?' Leo, a Dutchman, flashed a smile and my diving adventures on Mahé began.
我真的好渴望穿我的潜水服。虽然我很久以前就已经知道发生在20世纪90年代的厄尔尼诺现象对这儿的海底生物和珊瑚产生了极其大的损伤。但我仍想亲自去看看。所以第二天一早，因为睡过了头，我抱着装着我的早餐的特百惠保鲜盒（这都是餐厅就餐处员工足智多谋想出来的办法，他们的微笑服务和足智多谋都是我乐意留在那里的重要原因）匆匆忙忙的朝海滩冲去。戴着我的巴拿马帽子，穿着我的夏威夷衬衫，我简直就是一个老土的来自英国的外国佬。也难怪一个路过的长得就像一只晒得黑漆漆的海象的男人看着我吐出一口烟大笑道：“不想吃你那美味的早餐了吗？”他是里奥，荷兰人，在他闪过的笑容之中我在马埃的潜水之旅开始啦！
The joy of being out on the ocean and my first view of the dramatic coastline was transfixing. We headed for a site called Adam's Apple, named for the rock that marks the dive spot. Diving is like meditation: the serenity of the weightlessness, the buoyancy that enables you to swim with the fish, the noise of the slow inhaling and exhaling of pressurised air, the fascinating landscape of coral and rock on the seabed, and the inhabitants of this otherworldly space. Over the next couple of days I swam with giant barracudas, white-tipped reef sharks, humphead parrot fish, chocolate dips, lobsters, turtles, angel fish and stingrays. For my money, the variety of dive sites and sea life in the Seychelles is on a par with both Cuba and Mozambique.
来到海洋上的欣喜和第一次看到绝美的海岸线的感受沁入心脾，充斥全身。我们出发去一个叫做“亚当的苹果（或是喉结）”的地方，那里以石头而得名，并且是潜水的标志性地方。潜水如同冥想，在失重状态下会产生入禅一般的宁静感，而海水的浮力使你能与鱼同游，氧气瓶伴着缓慢的呼吸生出浅浅的噪音，昭示着在这个异度的空间里似乎生活着一群不存于世的生物。以后的这些日子里，我时常去潜水，总是和巨型梭鱼、白趾礁鲨、苏眉鹦鹉鱼，巧克力点心，或是龙虾，海龟，天使鱼，黄貂鱼这些神奇的生物一同畅游海洋。在我看来，塞舌尔这变幻多姿的潜水地点和五花八门的海洋生物一点也不逊色于古巴和莫桑比克。
After that I rented a car (the smallest I could find to try to avoid being hit by the careering local buses) and asked for directions to a good local beach. Everyone I met was friendly and willing to help, but some of the directions weren't very reliable. After a winding descent past waterfalls I broke through the cool shade of the forest canopy and the most beautiful golden sunshine afternoon spread before me. Glaud Bay is the most quintessentially laid-back Seychellois experience, a tiny village boasting little more than a church and a bar. After a dip I kicked back with a beer, a plate of delicious grilled fish and a killer creme caramel in the warm sunshine and surveyed the bay, with Bob Marley singing on the radio. Everything felt like it was gonna be alright.
之后我租了一辆车（我所能找到的最小的车，这样才能避免被当地的职业公车司机撞到），又打听到了去当地一个不错的海边的路。我遇到的每个人都特别友好，也很乐意帮忙，但他们给的方向却让人不敢认同。绕过一条曲折的小路，路过几个风景优美的瀑布之后，我误打误撞闯进了一片幽凉的森林之中，树木如华盖一般覆盖着大地，午后金色的阳光洒下，铺展在我的面前。格罗湾是塞舌尔最经典的悠闲去处，这是个特别小的村子，夸张一点说只有差不多一间教堂或是一个酒吧似的大小而已。我下车去游了一圈，一会儿便带着一瓶啤酒、一碟烤鱼和一杯最爱的焦糖布丁回来了。在温暖的阳光之中，我开着车，听着收音机里鲍勃马利的歌声，在那个下午，我觉得一切都这么美好，一切都会变得很美好。
On my way back I stopped at Maria's Rock Café. It's an oddity that must be experienced, a Dali-esque raft built around a granite outcrop and littered with some pretty racy sculptures. The lovely staff, headed by the ever-smiling Maria, bring ingredients for you to cook at your table on paraffin-candle heated rocks. Once the oil starts smoking, you chuck on prawns and chicken and whatever else takes your fancy. The mixture of surf and turf is fresh and, with generous portions of homemade relishes your appetite is the only guide to how much and how quickly the food should be eaten. It's full-on, sweaty, sticky-fingered fun and definitely a child-friendly experience (although you might have to avert their eyes from the more explicit artworks and ask the artist responsible, Maria's Italian boyfriend, not to perform his more risqué magic tricks).
回去的路上我顺带去了一趟玛丽亚摇滚咖啡屋，这里的奇异风格绝对不容错过，一艘大理式筏绕着花岗岩顶而建，装饰有漂亮活泼、各式各样的雕塑，显得凌乱却不失特别。几个可爱的员工，跟在一直微笑着的玛利亚后面，端上来一些工具和材料，就在用石蜡蜡烛加热的石头上煮起了火锅。当里面的油开始冒烟的时候，我把龙虾、鸡肉还有任何我喜欢吃的东西都丢进去煮。冲浪过后和散步过后的激情感受犹在身边，再伴随着自助不限量的新鲜滋味，现在能吃下多少，能吃得多快都只取决于我的胃口了。这是一次让我心满意足，挥汗如雨，十指生香的经历，也绝对是老少皆宜的好地方（前提是你要遮住小孩子的眼睛，以免他们看到那些表意太直率的艺术品，或者除非玛利亚的那个意大利男朋友没有在表演那些有伤风化的魔术）。
Before I knew it my time at Banyan Tree was up and I saddled up onto a local charter flight that took me straight to my next stop, the island of Praslin. I was to stay at La Reserve resort at the invitation of Peter Mountford, the charming British manager who took over the running of the hotel from his parents, only to be saddled with the unenviable task of rebuilding the whole resort after the 2004 tsunami. He gave me a few home truths about running a hotel in the Seychelles. The daily headache seems to be trying to accommodate the demands of Western diets at the breakfast buffet; apparently fights can break out over boxes of kiwis and other non-indigenous fruits at the local market.
时间过得飞快，不知不觉中我在悦榕庄度假村的日程已结束了，我租了一架当地的小飞机，直接飞到了我的下一站—普拉兰岛。应皮特芒福德的邀请，我住在他的La Reserve酒店，皮特芒福德是一个来自英国的风度翩翩的酒店经理，他从父母手中继承了酒店，还背负了2004年海啸过后重建酒店的重任。他向我透露了许多在塞舌尔开酒店不为人知的内部秘密。每天最让人头疼的事就是准备自助早餐时要考虑到各种各样的西方饮食习惯。还要为了当地市场上屈指可数的几箱进口水果，比如像猕猴桃之类的打破头皮。
I took off for a day-trip around the nearby island of La Digue. There are regular ferries and once there all you need to get around are your two feet and a rented bike - the tiny island's 2,000 inhabitants are only too helpful with directions and a smile. Following the path to the beaches of Anse Source d'Argent you realise why they are often voted the best in the world: a series of small, golden coves separated by gigantic granite boulders weathered into the most extraordinary shapes by time. Sheltered by a reef, the sea is shallow and calm, perfect for snorkelling and sunbathing. But even in paradise it seems there are possessive tourists with towels and even later in the day there was a race to find a perfect spot. As I basked, a French beauty and her friends passed by, snapping photographs as they went. It was only as her beautiful bottom wiggled out of view that I realised it was in fact Emmanuelle Béart.
我从酒店出发花了一天的时间游览了附近的拉迪格岛。每天都有固定的船次出发到那儿，一旦你登上了岛，只需走路或租一辆自行车来游览四周。岛上有2000左右的原住民，他们很热情，谁都会微笑着给你指明方向，不至于迷了路。沿着小道我一路走到了安塞源德海滩上，那银色的沙滩会让你突然意识到为何这里总是被选为世界上最美丽的沙滩。数个金色的小海湾被花岗岩巨石逐一隔开，经年累月风化成了世上最独特的造型。被巨大的礁石遮住，海洋显得宁静安详，既适合潜泳，又是日光浴的好地方。可就算这里的风景美如天堂，却也总是挤满了各色各样的游客。有的带着毛巾，到下午一些的时候有的甚至争夺起了海滩上的“好地点”。我正躺着懒洋洋地晒太阳的时候，一个法国美女和她的朋友们走了过去，她们边走边嬉笑，你争我抢地拍照。直到她扭着美丽的屁股越走越远，离开我视线的时候，我才意识到她是艾曼纽比尔特。
Back on Praslin, I hired a car to explore, stopping for roadside fruit juices, curried fish, a few final night swims and a day-trip to see the deliciously rude coco de mer nut and catch a rare glimpse of a native black parrot. The trek（旅途） through the well-labelled reservation is best done at an amble（缓行漫步） as the humidity climbs while you navigate the steep, airless paths. But it is fascinating.
回到普拉兰岛之后，我租了一辆车继续探索。停在路边买果汁、咖喱鱼，这最后的一日一夜游也让我惊喜不少，我见识了美味的椰子螺母，有幸还看到了罕见的当地黑鹦鹉。漫步的时候沿途有写明的路标是最好的旅程。就像在一条陡峭、缺氧的路上前行的时候，湿度也在不断加高。这一切都太完美了。
I spent a lazy final day on Anse Lazio beach and with that my time was up. The Seychelles is a paradise on earth and the islanders and their smiling welcome will ensure that you will never want to leave. But don't panic, you can always return. I know I will.
我在安塞拉齐奥海滩懒洋洋地度过了旅途的最后一天。塞舌尔是地球上的天堂，热情的岛民和他们的微笑让你不愿离开。但别急，走了也是可以回来的，我知道有一天我一定会回来。
（translated by YT)
 |
BC |
Benedict Cumberbatch
25 Nov 2011
本尼迪克特 康伯巴奇 2011年11月25日
Nestled off the coast of East Africa, the Seychelles lie firmly within the tropics, jewels of green in an otherwise aquamarine expanse of Indian Ocean. They are famed for their beautiful beaches; the white sand, palm trees and rounded black granite rocks make the islands the very definition of paradise. And once I heard that this was the destination of choice for Wills and Kate's honeymoon... well, how could I argue with royalty?
坐落在东非海岸的塞舌尔，正好位于热带地区，就如同绵延湛蓝的印度洋上一颗绿宝石般美丽。这里以美丽的海滩而颇负盛名。那白色的沙滩、随处可见的棕榈树和环绕四周深黑的花岗岩，都让这座小岛变成了名副其实的天堂。并且我曾经还听说这里可是威尔王子和凯特王妃蜜月之旅的目的地呢。噢，好吧，我又怎么能与皇室争夺这么美丽的地方呢。
Approaching the island, I found myself doing my best Lord Attenborough impression: 'Welcome to Jurassic Park!' The darker ocean gives way to the sparkling turquoise of the shoreline and the famed white beaches, behind which endless tropical vegetation stretches back to the foothills of immense granite mountains. The sight was intoxicating. In the early morning the first thing that hit me was the humidity and smell, both alien and alluring, areminder (as if I needed one) that I really was far from home.
触碰到岛屿的那一瞬间，我就如同是被阿滕伯勒伯爵引领着走进侏罗纪公园最痴迷的爱好者，仿佛他正对我说：“欢迎来到侏罗纪公园”。绵延无尽的热带植被与巨大的花岗岩石山之间铺陈着宝绿色般的海岸线和那名满天下的白色沙滩，在它们绝美的映射之下，精黑色的海洋都只能退居第二。真是美景不醉人自醉。第二天一大早，那醉人又陌生的湿润气息弄醒了我，似乎是在提醒我已离家很远了（看来我真的需要这个提醒）。
My hillside pool villa at the Banyan Tree Seychelles resort on the south-west coast of the island of Mahé opened on to a decked terrace with an infinity plunge pool and Jacuzzi, all perched on top of the rocks and surrounded by trees, with an uninterrupted view over the ocean. Through a shuttered sliding door lay a bathroom with a sunken tub perfectly positioned for a romantic stargazing bath for two. Everything in the resort was geared for honeymoon levels of
smooching romance. I quickly learned a basic but crucial lesson: never come to paradise alone.
我在位于马埃岛西南海岸的塞舌尔悦榕庄度假村定了一套建于山坡上并带泳池的别墅，别墅的双层露台上有一个跳水池和按摩浴缸。别墅位于层峦叠嶂的石山之上，四周尽是绿树丛荫。展眼望去，视野开阔，大海呈现眼前。穿过一道百叶推拉门帘，是一间浴室，浴室里横陈着一个叹为观止的双人观星式浴缸。浴缸的下沉式设计造型完美，充盈着无与伦比的浪漫气息。这个度假村里的一切都比照了蜜月式，以一种罗曼蒂克的风格来设计。我很快便懂了一个基础浅显但至关重要的道理：永远都别独自一人来天堂。
Anything you could possibly need, from maps, to guides, car hire, a doctor,
suggested evening hangouts and excursions, the resort staff will happily arrange.But you won't want to venture far without first trying the epic breakfasts (every type of fruit, juice, pastry, cold meat, cooked breakfast, curry and local speciality you can imagine). The
main reason I was in the Seychelles was for some serious R and R, so my first appointment was for a signature Thai massage. Reclining, post-treatment on the spa veranda as the sun set was one of those moments of tranquillity where I couldn't believe my luck. Then, as if it couldn't have got any better, I saw my first fruit bat. Those things are prehistorically big: 'Welcome to Jurassic park... again!' Suddenly, the air seemed to fill with 'flyingfoxes' as they are known locally, waking up for their evening feeding session - and later providing the vital service of shitting all over the islands, therefore ensuring plant dispersement.
任何可能会用到的东西，不管是地图、导游，租车、看医生，或是找适合晚上娱乐的地方、进行短途旅行，这个度假村里的员工都将热情地为你安排好一切。但在首次品尝这里绝美无比的早餐之前你一定不会想去其他地方（各种口味的水果、果汁、糕点、冷鲜肉、熟食早餐、咖喱和你所想象得到的各种当地特产）。我留在塞舌尔是因为好几个重要的原因。所以我一住下来第一件事就是签字订了一次泰式按摩。当我躺在阳台上接受按摩的时候，太阳正落山，宁静的氛围充斥里外，能碰上这样安宁的时刻做按摩，我觉得自己的运气好极了。突然，似乎为了证实我今夜的运气实在是好的不能再好了，我第一次看见了果蝠。这种动物长得超级巨大，我仿佛又听见了：“再次…欢迎来到侏罗纪公园”！不一会儿，空中便挤满了当地人所熟知的“飞天狐狸”，它们醒来准备摄取丰盛的晚餐，饭后果蝠们又向整座岛提供了重要的排泄物，只有这样，才能滋润岛上的植物，保证它们的繁茂。
As the stars rose I drifted down to the beach for a swim in a haze of post-massage calm.As I bobbed around, some of the bats broke off for a dip in the sea. Surrounded by all this magic I did a length of the bay and by the time I stepped out of the shallows the bioluminescence of tiny plankton lit up every movement of my body through the water. It's
impossible to do the experience justice in words but it was one that I repeated most
evenings. I rounded off the day with dinner at one of the three in-house restaurants. It
was fish night, with scallops, bouillabaisse, and job fish (a filling, fleshy fish) on the menu, followed by white chocolate parfait with passion fruit jelly, raspberry jus and dark chocolate. Out of this world and reasonably priced.
夜沉星移，全身上下充满着做完按摩后的平静与安心，我慢悠悠地游荡到沙滩上在一片迷蒙的雾霭中游起了泳。正当我游来游去的时候，有几只蝙蝠俯冲到海里也想来浸一口这美丽的海水。被这迷幻般的气氛包围着，我心血来潮，游到了海湾那边。正当我游出阴影所覆盖的海域时，微小的浮游生物在海水四处泛起了光芒，穿过海水，点亮了我全身，我做什么动作都一览无余。这种神奇的感受有多么美妙我真的无法用语言来形容，我只知道大部分的晚上我都来这儿游泳。度假村内有三个内部饭店，我这天在这里用了晚餐，以结束这美妙的一天。看来这是一个能尽情享用海鲜的夜晚，餐厅里的菜单上有扇贝、鱼汤、还有工勤鱼（就是一种填充式的肉质鱼）。而饭后点心则是加了百香果果冻的牛奶巧克力蛋糕，覆盆子和黑巧克力。这种美味乃世间难寻，且物廉价美。
I was keen to get my flippers on. even though I had been told that a particularly hot El Niño in the 1990s had done substantial damage to the sea life and coral. But I wanted to find out for myself, so the following morning, having overslept, I rushed off with a Tupperware container of breakfast (the smiling resourcefulness of the dining staff was one of the best aspects of my stay). With my Panama hat and Hawaiian shirt, I was a cliché of the hapless Brit abroad, so no wonder a loitering man who looked like a well-tanned walrus gave a smoky laugh: 'Didn't want to you miss your breakfast, then?' Leo, a Dutchman, flashed a smile and my diving adventures on Mahé began.
我真的好渴望穿我的潜水服。虽然我很久以前就已经知道发生在20世纪90年代的厄尔尼诺现象对这儿的海底生物和珊瑚产生了极其大的损伤。但我仍想亲自去看看。所以第二天一早，因为睡过了头，我抱着装着我的早餐的特百惠保鲜盒（这都是餐厅就餐处员工足智多谋想出来的办法，他们的微笑服务和足智多谋都是我乐意留在那里的重要原因）匆匆忙忙的朝海滩冲去。戴着我的巴拿马帽子，穿着我的夏威夷衬衫，我简直就是一个老土的来自英国的外国佬。也难怪一个路过的长得就像一只晒得黑漆漆的海象的男人看着我吐出一口烟大笑道：“不想吃你那美味的早餐了吗？”他是里奥，荷兰人，在他闪过的笑容之中我在马埃的潜水之旅开始啦！
The joy of being out on the ocean and my first view of the dramatic coastline was transfixing. We headed for a site called Adam's Apple, named for the rock that marks the dive spot. Diving is like meditation: the serenity of the weightlessness, the buoyancy that enables you to swim with the fish, the noise of the slow inhaling and exhaling of pressurised air, the fascinating landscape of coral and rock on the seabed, and the inhabitants of this otherworldly space. Over the next couple of days I swam with giant barracudas, white-tipped reef sharks, humphead parrot fish, chocolate dips, lobsters, turtles, angel fish and stingrays. For my money, the variety of dive sites and sea life in the Seychelles is on a par with both Cuba and Mozambique.
来到海洋上的欣喜和第一次看到绝美的海岸线的感受沁入心脾，充斥全身。我们出发去一个叫做“亚当的苹果（或是喉结）”的地方，那里以石头而得名，并且是潜水的标志性地方。潜水如同冥想，在失重状态下会产生入禅一般的宁静感，而海水的浮力使你能与鱼同游，氧气瓶伴着缓慢的呼吸生出浅浅的噪音，昭示着在这个异度的空间里似乎生活着一群不存于世的生物。以后的这些日子里，我时常去潜水，总是和巨型梭鱼、白趾礁鲨、苏眉鹦鹉鱼，巧克力点心，或是龙虾，海龟，天使鱼，黄貂鱼这些神奇的生物一同畅游海洋。在我看来，塞舌尔这变幻多姿的潜水地点和五花八门的海洋生物一点也不逊色于古巴和莫桑比克。
After that I rented a car (the smallest I could find to try to avoid being hit by the careering local buses) and asked for directions to a good local beach. Everyone I met was friendly and willing to help, but some of the directions weren't very reliable. After a winding descent past waterfalls I broke through the cool shade of the forest canopy and the most beautiful golden sunshine afternoon spread before me. Glaud Bay is the most quintessentially laid-back Seychellois experience, a tiny village boasting little more than a church and a bar. After a dip I kicked back with a beer, a plate of delicious grilled fish and a killer creme caramel in the warm sunshine and surveyed the bay, with Bob Marley singing on the radio. Everything felt like it was gonna be alright.
之后我租了一辆车（我所能找到的最小的车，这样才能避免被当地的职业公车司机撞到），又打听到了去当地一个不错的海边的路。我遇到的每个人都特别友好，也很乐意帮忙，但他们给的方向却让人不敢认同。绕过一条曲折的小路，路过几个风景优美的瀑布之后，我误打误撞闯进了一片幽凉的森林之中，树木如华盖一般覆盖着大地，午后金色的阳光洒下，铺展在我的面前。格罗湾是塞舌尔最经典的悠闲去处，这是个特别小的村子，夸张一点说只有差不多一间教堂或是一个酒吧似的大小而已。我下车去游了一圈，一会儿便带着一瓶啤酒、一碟烤鱼和一杯最爱的焦糖布丁回来了。在温暖的阳光之中，我开着车，听着收音机里鲍勃马利的歌声，在那个下午，我觉得一切都这么美好，一切都会变得很美好。
On my way back I stopped at Maria's Rock Café. It's an oddity that must be experienced, a Dali-esque raft built around a granite outcrop and littered with some pretty racy sculptures. The lovely staff, headed by the ever-smiling Maria, bring ingredients for you to cook at your table on paraffin-candle heated rocks. Once the oil starts smoking, you chuck on prawns and chicken and whatever else takes your fancy. The mixture of surf and turf is fresh and, with generous portions of homemade relishes your appetite is the only guide to how much and how quickly the food should be eaten. It's full-on, sweaty, sticky-fingered fun and definitely a child-friendly experience (although you might have to avert their eyes from the more explicit artworks and ask the artist responsible, Maria's Italian boyfriend, not to perform his more risqué magic tricks).
回去的路上我顺带去了一趟玛丽亚摇滚咖啡屋，这里的奇异风格绝对不容错过，一艘大理式筏绕着花岗岩顶而建，装饰有漂亮活泼、各式各样的雕塑，显得凌乱却不失特别。几个可爱的员工，跟在一直微笑着的玛利亚后面，端上来一些工具和材料，就在用石蜡蜡烛加热的石头上煮起了火锅。当里面的油开始冒烟的时候，我把龙虾、鸡肉还有任何我喜欢吃的东西都丢进去煮。冲浪过后和散步过后的激情感受犹在身边，再伴随着自助不限量的新鲜滋味，现在能吃下多少，能吃得多快都只取决于我的胃口了。这是一次让我心满意足，挥汗如雨，十指生香的经历，也绝对是老少皆宜的好地方（前提是你要遮住小孩子的眼睛，以免他们看到那些表意太直率的艺术品，或者除非玛利亚的那个意大利男朋友没有在表演那些有伤风化的魔术）。
Before I knew it my time at Banyan Tree was up and I saddled up onto a local charter flight that took me straight to my next stop, the island of Praslin. I was to stay at La Reserve resort at the invitation of Peter Mountford, the charming British manager who took over the running of the hotel from his parents, only to be saddled with the unenviable task of rebuilding the whole resort after the 2004 tsunami. He gave me a few home truths about running a hotel in the Seychelles. The daily headache seems to be trying to accommodate the demands of Western diets at the breakfast buffet; apparently fights can break out over boxes of kiwis and other non-indigenous fruits at the local market.
时间过得飞快，不知不觉中我在悦榕庄度假村的日程已结束了，我租了一架当地的小飞机，直接飞到了我的下一站—普拉兰岛。应皮特芒福德的邀请，我住在他的La Reserve酒店，皮特芒福德是一个来自英国的风度翩翩的酒店经理，他从父母手中继承了酒店，还背负了2004年海啸过后重建酒店的重任。他向我透露了许多在塞舌尔开酒店不为人知的内部秘密。每天最让人头疼的事就是准备自助早餐时要考虑到各种各样的西方饮食习惯。还要为了当地市场上屈指可数的几箱进口水果，比如像猕猴桃之类的打破头皮。
I took off for a day-trip around the nearby island of La Digue. There are regular ferries and once there all you need to get around are your two feet and a rented bike - the tiny island's 2,000 inhabitants are only too helpful with directions and a smile. Following the path to the beaches of Anse Source d'Argent you realise why they are often voted the best in the world: a series of small, golden coves separated by gigantic granite boulders weathered into the most extraordinary shapes by time. Sheltered by a reef, the sea is shallow and calm, perfect for snorkelling and sunbathing. But even in paradise it seems there are possessive tourists with towels and even later in the day there was a race to find a perfect spot. As I basked, a French beauty and her friends passed by, snapping photographs as they went. It was only as her beautiful bottom wiggled out of view that I realised it was in fact Emmanuelle Béart.
我从酒店出发花了一天的时间游览了附近的拉迪格岛。每天都有固定的船次出发到那儿，一旦你登上了岛，只需走路或租一辆自行车来游览四周。岛上有2000左右的原住民，他们很热情，谁都会微笑着给你指明方向，不至于迷了路。沿着小道我一路走到了安塞源德海滩上，那银色的沙滩会让你突然意识到为何这里总是被选为世界上最美丽的沙滩。数个金色的小海湾被花岗岩巨石逐一隔开，经年累月风化成了世上最独特的造型。被巨大的礁石遮住，海洋显得宁静安详，既适合潜泳，又是日光浴的好地方。可就算这里的风景美如天堂，却也总是挤满了各色各样的游客。有的带着毛巾，到下午一些的时候有的甚至争夺起了海滩上的“好地点”。我正躺着懒洋洋地晒太阳的时候，一个法国美女和她的朋友们走了过去，她们边走边嬉笑，你争我抢地拍照。直到她扭着美丽的屁股越走越远，离开我视线的时候，我才意识到她是艾曼纽比尔特。
Back on Praslin, I hired a car to explore, stopping for roadside fruit juices, curried fish, a few final night swims and a day-trip to see the deliciously rude coco de mer nut and catch a rare glimpse of a native black parrot. The trek（旅途） through the well-labelled reservation is best done at an amble（缓行漫步） as the humidity climbs while you navigate the steep, airless paths. But it is fascinating.
回到普拉兰岛之后，我租了一辆车继续探索。停在路边买果汁、咖喱鱼，这最后的一日一夜游也让我惊喜不少，我见识了美味的椰子螺母，有幸还看到了罕见的当地黑鹦鹉。漫步的时候沿途有写明的路标是最好的旅程。就像在一条陡峭、缺氧的路上前行的时候，湿度也在不断加高。这一切都太完美了。
I spent a lazy final day on Anse Lazio beach and with that my time was up. The Seychelles is a paradise on earth and the islanders and their smiling welcome will ensure that you will never want to leave. But don't panic, you can always return. I know I will.
我在安塞拉齐奥海滩懒洋洋地度过了旅途的最后一天。塞舌尔是地球上的天堂，热情的岛民和他们的微笑让你不愿离开。但别急，走了也是可以回来的，我知道有一天我一定会回来。
（translated by YT)
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