金融风暴下的三个时尚风向标 Funny
1 lipstick indicator 口红指数
One Depression-era pattern in female spending was the 25 percent increase in cosmetics sales. When a similar spike occurred during the economic doldrums of 1990 and 2001, this type of consumer behavior didn't elude Leonard Lauder, chairman of Estee Lauder Companies, which manufacture the cosmetic lines Estee Lauder, Clinique and MAC.
经济不景气女性消费萎靡的时候，化妆品的销售却有了25%的增幅。1990-2001年经济低迷时期，类似的情况同样有所发生。化妆品集团雅诗兰黛的董事长里奥纳德·兰黛发现了这种消费现象，他旗下拥有化妆品牌雅诗兰黛、倩碧和MAC。
Lauder took particular interest in the rise in lipstick purchases. In the fall of 2001, when the economy buckled after the Sept. 11 attacks, Estee Lauder lipstick sales jumped 11 percent. That trend in discretionary (or nonessential) spending has become known as the lipstick indicator.
兰黛尤其关注口红销量上升的现象。2001年9.11恐怖袭击事件令经济下滑，而雅诗兰黛的口红销量却提升了11%。这种悠闲消费（不必要的消费）的趋势演变成为口红指标。
When women can't afford pricier indulgences, Lauder mused, lipstick offers a cheaper compromise. If a woman aches for a new Chanel handbag that far exceeds her budget, opting for a $30 tube of lipstick may feel like a thrifty shopping decision. Also, women who wear lipstick probably reapply at least a few times per day. Such instant gratification can ease the urge to shop more.
兰黛发现，当女性囊中羞涩的时候，口红便成为相对便宜的好东西。如果一个女人心疼为新款香奈儿手袋付出的超过预算的大把银两时，转而选择一管30美元的口红可能是一种节俭的购物决定。同时，口红在一段时间内可以天天涂抹，这种迅速得到的满意感可以缓解强烈的购买欲。
2 hemline index 裙长指数
The shorter the skirt the stronger the economy, at least that's how the theory goes.
有个理论认为，女人的裙子越短，表明经济越强劲。
In 1926 US economist George Taylor coined the theory of the hemline index. It was a kind of frock exchange using skirt lengths as a signal of the state of the economy .
美国经济学家乔治·泰勒于1926年发明了这个裙长指数。该指数将裙长作为衡量经济好坏的一个信号。
Anyone applying this theory to the New York autumn/winter 2008 shows, would predict that we are hurtling towards a recession. Hemlines at Marc Jacobs, Jonathan Saunders and Phillip Lim were all resolutely below the knee.
任何把这个理论应用于2008年纽约秋冬装的发布会上的人都会认同，我们正处在一个经济低迷的时期。马克·雅可布、约翰森·桑德斯和菲利林这些名牌的裙长都毅然决然地超过了膝盖。
Looking back over the decades it is easy to see why the connection has been made: a glimpse of leg gives a sense of independence and confidence; a sweeping skirt is a sign of modesty and austerity.
回顾过去的几十年，我们就会轻而易举地发现裙长与经济之间的联系：露腿的装束传达出独立和自信，而拖地的长裙则是谦逊和朴素的表白。
In the Twenties, hemlines rose along with stock prices. Sonnet Stanfil, fashion curator of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, says: "The decade spelled economic freedom. Women threw off the shackles of the heavily-corseted Edwardian period and hemlines became dramatically shorter for the first time."
在上世纪二十年代，裙摆随着股价的上涨而升高。伦敦维多利亚与艾伯特博物馆的时装馆馆长索内特·斯坦费说："这十年显示出经济的自由。女性摆脱了爱德华时代紧身衣的沉重枷锁，裙长首次戏剧性地缩短了。"
In 1929 the Wall Street Crash brought boom time to an abrupt close and hems dropped almost overnight. During the Depression, mass unemployment meant it was not the time to experiment with cutting edge designs so skirts remained reassuringly long and subtly feminine.
1929年华尔街股市的下跌令繁荣的经济时期戛然而止，裙摆几乎一夜之间变长了。经济大萧条时期，大规模的失业意味着缩短裙长的设计是不合时宜的，所以裙子理所当然地保持着长长的，女性化的风格。
By the mid-Eighties, they were shorter than ever when shares reached new heights.
到了上世纪八十年代中期，随着股市再创新高，裙子长度比以往任何时候都要短。
As the 2000s dawned and computer systems coped with the new millennium, markets stayed up and so hemlines followed. But the first decade of the 21st century has generally been defined by uncertainty and fluctuation, from the return of the mini, to the more austere midi showing on catwalks now.
2000年后，计算机掌控的千禧年里市场繁荣，因此裙长也随之变化。但是，21世纪的头十年充满太多的不确定和波动的因素，所以T台上的裙子的式样也从迷你裙的回归而到如今更简朴的中长裙。
3 Hairstyle Index 发型指数
It is almost a century since the US economist George Taylor came up with the revolutionary "hemline index". Now the fashion world has finally offered up an alternative indicator of the country's economic state. The length of women's hair may no longer be seen as a result of the vagaries of fashion, but as an accurate barometer of the nation's wealth.
美国经济学家乔治·泰勒提出的具有革命性的"裙长指数"几乎已被应用了一个世纪之久。如今，时尚界又提出了一个可以取而代之的衡量国家经济状况的指数。女性头发的长度不再单单是彰显个性或者时尚的信号了，它也成为了国家经济的晴雨表。
Japanese researchers have found that when economies are doing well, women wear their hair long; when there is a slump, they cut it short.
日本研究人员发现，经济转好的时候，女性喜欢留长发；经济萎靡的时候，女性则喜欢剪短发。
"People enjoy fewer material pleasures in periods of recession, so want more visual pleasures, and there's more variation among short haircuts than long."
人们在经济低迷的时期所能享受到的物质快乐将会减少，所以人们更需要视觉上的满足感，而短发比长发更容易变换式样。
"In periods of prosperity, people are busy, so they have no time to consume. In the 1950s the country was very prosperous, but terribly boring aesthetically," said Ms Sallstrom Matthews.
萨塞唐·马修斯女士说："经济繁荣的时候，人们忙忙碌碌以至于没有时间消费。上世纪50年代，社会异常繁荣，而审美却枯燥得可怕。"
This fashion for long hair continued through the 1960s and 1970s, with Audrey Hepburn's chic up-do giving way to the long, centre-parted hippy look.
长发的流行趋势一直持续到上世纪的60、70年代，直到奥黛丽·赫本用别致的上卷式盘发替代了中分的长发型。
"Since the early 1990s hair has been getting progressively longer, and now we're having to go short. "
"自上世纪90年代起，发型的长度在不断地增长，而现在发型又在变短。
One Depression-era pattern in female spending was the 25 percent increase in cosmetics sales. When a similar spike occurred during the economic doldrums of 1990 and 2001, this type of consumer behavior didn't elude Leonard Lauder, chairman of Estee Lauder Companies, which manufacture the cosmetic lines Estee Lauder, Clinique and MAC.
经济不景气女性消费萎靡的时候，化妆品的销售却有了25%的增幅。1990-2001年经济低迷时期，类似的情况同样有所发生。化妆品集团雅诗兰黛的董事长里奥纳德·兰黛发现了这种消费现象，他旗下拥有化妆品牌雅诗兰黛、倩碧和MAC。
Lauder took particular interest in the rise in lipstick purchases. In the fall of 2001, when the economy buckled after the Sept. 11 attacks, Estee Lauder lipstick sales jumped 11 percent. That trend in discretionary (or nonessential) spending has become known as the lipstick indicator.
兰黛尤其关注口红销量上升的现象。2001年9.11恐怖袭击事件令经济下滑，而雅诗兰黛的口红销量却提升了11%。这种悠闲消费（不必要的消费）的趋势演变成为口红指标。
When women can't afford pricier indulgences, Lauder mused, lipstick offers a cheaper compromise. If a woman aches for a new Chanel handbag that far exceeds her budget, opting for a $30 tube of lipstick may feel like a thrifty shopping decision. Also, women who wear lipstick probably reapply at least a few times per day. Such instant gratification can ease the urge to shop more.
兰黛发现，当女性囊中羞涩的时候，口红便成为相对便宜的好东西。如果一个女人心疼为新款香奈儿手袋付出的超过预算的大把银两时，转而选择一管30美元的口红可能是一种节俭的购物决定。同时，口红在一段时间内可以天天涂抹，这种迅速得到的满意感可以缓解强烈的购买欲。
2 hemline index 裙长指数
The shorter the skirt the stronger the economy, at least that's how the theory goes.
有个理论认为，女人的裙子越短，表明经济越强劲。
In 1926 US economist George Taylor coined the theory of the hemline index. It was a kind of frock exchange using skirt lengths as a signal of the state of the economy .
美国经济学家乔治·泰勒于1926年发明了这个裙长指数。该指数将裙长作为衡量经济好坏的一个信号。
Anyone applying this theory to the New York autumn/winter 2008 shows, would predict that we are hurtling towards a recession. Hemlines at Marc Jacobs, Jonathan Saunders and Phillip Lim were all resolutely below the knee.
任何把这个理论应用于2008年纽约秋冬装的发布会上的人都会认同，我们正处在一个经济低迷的时期。马克·雅可布、约翰森·桑德斯和菲利林这些名牌的裙长都毅然决然地超过了膝盖。
Looking back over the decades it is easy to see why the connection has been made: a glimpse of leg gives a sense of independence and confidence; a sweeping skirt is a sign of modesty and austerity.
回顾过去的几十年，我们就会轻而易举地发现裙长与经济之间的联系：露腿的装束传达出独立和自信，而拖地的长裙则是谦逊和朴素的表白。
In the Twenties, hemlines rose along with stock prices. Sonnet Stanfil, fashion curator of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, says: "The decade spelled economic freedom. Women threw off the shackles of the heavily-corseted Edwardian period and hemlines became dramatically shorter for the first time."
在上世纪二十年代，裙摆随着股价的上涨而升高。伦敦维多利亚与艾伯特博物馆的时装馆馆长索内特·斯坦费说："这十年显示出经济的自由。女性摆脱了爱德华时代紧身衣的沉重枷锁，裙长首次戏剧性地缩短了。"
In 1929 the Wall Street Crash brought boom time to an abrupt close and hems dropped almost overnight. During the Depression, mass unemployment meant it was not the time to experiment with cutting edge designs so skirts remained reassuringly long and subtly feminine.
1929年华尔街股市的下跌令繁荣的经济时期戛然而止，裙摆几乎一夜之间变长了。经济大萧条时期，大规模的失业意味着缩短裙长的设计是不合时宜的，所以裙子理所当然地保持着长长的，女性化的风格。
By the mid-Eighties, they were shorter than ever when shares reached new heights.
到了上世纪八十年代中期，随着股市再创新高，裙子长度比以往任何时候都要短。
As the 2000s dawned and computer systems coped with the new millennium, markets stayed up and so hemlines followed. But the first decade of the 21st century has generally been defined by uncertainty and fluctuation, from the return of the mini, to the more austere midi showing on catwalks now.
2000年后，计算机掌控的千禧年里市场繁荣，因此裙长也随之变化。但是，21世纪的头十年充满太多的不确定和波动的因素，所以T台上的裙子的式样也从迷你裙的回归而到如今更简朴的中长裙。
3 Hairstyle Index 发型指数
It is almost a century since the US economist George Taylor came up with the revolutionary "hemline index". Now the fashion world has finally offered up an alternative indicator of the country's economic state. The length of women's hair may no longer be seen as a result of the vagaries of fashion, but as an accurate barometer of the nation's wealth.
美国经济学家乔治·泰勒提出的具有革命性的"裙长指数"几乎已被应用了一个世纪之久。如今，时尚界又提出了一个可以取而代之的衡量国家经济状况的指数。女性头发的长度不再单单是彰显个性或者时尚的信号了，它也成为了国家经济的晴雨表。
Japanese researchers have found that when economies are doing well, women wear their hair long; when there is a slump, they cut it short.
日本研究人员发现，经济转好的时候，女性喜欢留长发；经济萎靡的时候，女性则喜欢剪短发。
"People enjoy fewer material pleasures in periods of recession, so want more visual pleasures, and there's more variation among short haircuts than long."
人们在经济低迷的时期所能享受到的物质快乐将会减少，所以人们更需要视觉上的满足感，而短发比长发更容易变换式样。
"In periods of prosperity, people are busy, so they have no time to consume. In the 1950s the country was very prosperous, but terribly boring aesthetically," said Ms Sallstrom Matthews.
萨塞唐·马修斯女士说："经济繁荣的时候，人们忙忙碌碌以至于没有时间消费。上世纪50年代，社会异常繁荣，而审美却枯燥得可怕。"
This fashion for long hair continued through the 1960s and 1970s, with Audrey Hepburn's chic up-do giving way to the long, centre-parted hippy look.
长发的流行趋势一直持续到上世纪的60、70年代，直到奥黛丽·赫本用别致的上卷式盘发替代了中分的长发型。
"Since the early 1990s hair has been getting progressively longer, and now we're having to go short. "
"自上世纪90年代起，发型的长度在不断地增长，而现在发型又在变短。
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