Lanvin填坑中 - Scandal
前：橙花，佛手柑，柑桔，鼠尾草
中：皮革，鸢尾，玫瑰，依兰
后：熏香，灵猫香，橡苔，香草，岩兰草，安息香
1933年推出，浪凡老香的经典之一，说到西普皮革不能不提的代表作，可惜的是1971年已停产。
手头上这只据说大约是三四十年代的原版。大约是二战引起的成本原因，虽是香精，也只有小小一只红边盒子，简陋地放着小巧的玻璃方瓶，里面沉淀着经历数十年蒸发剩下的少量酱油色液体。
同为Andre Fraysse的作品，比起Arpege的温婉低调，Scandal从名字从香调上来看都必然是另一种张扬的路线。大概是年代久远的原因，前调的各种清新柑橘类香调早已消散不可分辨，一上手就是厚重的皮革+烟草+橡苔+动物感的臊气，当头一棒，瞬间恍惚回到了上世纪三四十年代欧洲的地下酒吧，空气中的霉味与经年不散的烟草气息混在一起，老旧的皮革吧椅，熙熙攘攘的人们聚在一起听着广播传来的战况，再来点小酒忘掉明天的烦恼—谁知道明天会发生什么呢？
最后沉淀下来的是温和干净的花香，分辨无力，跟My Sin有几分相似，再张扬狂野的女子也总有回归平和日常生活之时吧。如此老的香水，即使保存的条件再好，也无法再展现它原来的花香调了，一如美人迟暮，很是可惜。
现在比较好奇的是六七十年代的版本，据说这时的版本没有原版那么"DIRTY"了，更多地展现了花香调的部分。确实有些道理，三四十年代本来就是个动荡不安的时代，这时的版本，才更符合scandal这个名字想要表现的意义吧。
红标版实物照片：http://www.douban.com/photos/photo/1405259924/
最后，专业香评非我这迟钝的鼻子和拙劣的文笔可以写得出的，在此引用BN上Asha的一段专业级香评：
Scandal has been compared to Chanel Cuir de Russie which I am wearing on my other arm for reference (modern formulation, parfum strength).
On first application of Scandal, I smell penetrating white florals with a slight urinous quality. This could be the age of the vintage juice, or it could be a lily-like note within the composition. It is slightly powdery, but not as much as Cuir de Russie which seems to have a cool, dry iris note right up front. The leather in Scandal comes out quickly, and is such an incredible rendering of real leather, that I would probably not be able to distinguish between the fragrance and a pair of well-tanned boots in a blind sniff test. I smell smoky birch tar and castoreum--the birch tar note is not as plastic or petrochemical as it seems to be in Cuir de Russie, rather, it is more woody and resinous. The castoreum does not have the antiseptic "band-aid" edge that I have smelled in other fragrances (L'Artisan Dzing! for example), but has a softened horse stable smell of hay, wood, dried manure and saddle leather. I also smell a slight tinge of tobacco and vanilla. Comparing to CdR at this stage, Scandal smells drier, bitter, green, mossy, much more leathery and animalic, and a bit less floral. Both seem to be equally powdery at this point, and I suspect that the iris in the mid notes of Scandal are starting to come out.
Scandal's middle leather stage lasts a couple of hours, and slowly evolves from bitter, dry, almost harsh leather to a softer, creamy leather with floral notes. It never has the sweet, floral-leather which is almost like butter stage that CdR has, but next to Scandal, CdR does not have the same leather prominence throughout the entire development. CdR also seems much more feminine than Scandal, perhaps because it is not nearly as dry and mossy. However, it is at the late middle stage that both Scandal and CdR smell the most alike with refined, softened leather and mildly sweet floral notes (iris and mixed white florals). I didn't smell civet very strongly in Scandal today, but I did smell it from time to time in a previous wearing. The civet (cat-pee and mothball-like notes) in Scandal is restrained--it is much less harsh and edgy than the civet I have smelled in other modern fragrance formulations. It mostly comes out in the late-middle drydown.
In the late development, some incense and sweet (now banned) musks show themselves in Scandal's base. The incense is not like the burned frankincense aromachemical I have smelled in modern perfumes. It is more like a combination of garden sage, which has a smoky quality to it, ash and mild resins. The ash note is almost like burning sage from a sage bundle, so it is not quite the smell of burned tobacco (ie, ashtray smell), but is more herbal, green, dry and medicinal. I am sure there is also some vetiver, which typically adds to the smoky vegetal note, and oakmoss which is very mossy, dry and powdery. In comparison, CdR is still much sweeter and floral, and has completely lost the earlier birch tar smoke note. Scandal is very firmly rooted in the woody leather chypre family with resins and oakmoss in the base. It is a beautiful composition from beginning to end, a joy to wear, and frankly, is what I wish modern leather chypres would be. Sillage is light to moderate, longevity is moderate (skin scent after 6 hours), and it is very wearable for either men or women.
中：皮革，鸢尾，玫瑰，依兰
后：熏香，灵猫香，橡苔，香草，岩兰草，安息香
1933年推出，浪凡老香的经典之一，说到西普皮革不能不提的代表作，可惜的是1971年已停产。
手头上这只据说大约是三四十年代的原版。大约是二战引起的成本原因，虽是香精，也只有小小一只红边盒子，简陋地放着小巧的玻璃方瓶，里面沉淀着经历数十年蒸发剩下的少量酱油色液体。
同为Andre Fraysse的作品，比起Arpege的温婉低调，Scandal从名字从香调上来看都必然是另一种张扬的路线。大概是年代久远的原因，前调的各种清新柑橘类香调早已消散不可分辨，一上手就是厚重的皮革+烟草+橡苔+动物感的臊气，当头一棒，瞬间恍惚回到了上世纪三四十年代欧洲的地下酒吧，空气中的霉味与经年不散的烟草气息混在一起，老旧的皮革吧椅，熙熙攘攘的人们聚在一起听着广播传来的战况，再来点小酒忘掉明天的烦恼—谁知道明天会发生什么呢？
最后沉淀下来的是温和干净的花香，分辨无力，跟My Sin有几分相似，再张扬狂野的女子也总有回归平和日常生活之时吧。如此老的香水，即使保存的条件再好，也无法再展现它原来的花香调了，一如美人迟暮，很是可惜。
现在比较好奇的是六七十年代的版本，据说这时的版本没有原版那么"DIRTY"了，更多地展现了花香调的部分。确实有些道理，三四十年代本来就是个动荡不安的时代，这时的版本，才更符合scandal这个名字想要表现的意义吧。
红标版实物照片：http://www.douban.com/photos/photo/1405259924/
 |
继红标瓶之后，得偿所愿再收得白菜未拆封老版一只，心满意足 |
最后，专业香评非我这迟钝的鼻子和拙劣的文笔可以写得出的，在此引用BN上Asha的一段专业级香评：
Scandal has been compared to Chanel Cuir de Russie which I am wearing on my other arm for reference (modern formulation, parfum strength).
On first application of Scandal, I smell penetrating white florals with a slight urinous quality. This could be the age of the vintage juice, or it could be a lily-like note within the composition. It is slightly powdery, but not as much as Cuir de Russie which seems to have a cool, dry iris note right up front. The leather in Scandal comes out quickly, and is such an incredible rendering of real leather, that I would probably not be able to distinguish between the fragrance and a pair of well-tanned boots in a blind sniff test. I smell smoky birch tar and castoreum--the birch tar note is not as plastic or petrochemical as it seems to be in Cuir de Russie, rather, it is more woody and resinous. The castoreum does not have the antiseptic "band-aid" edge that I have smelled in other fragrances (L'Artisan Dzing! for example), but has a softened horse stable smell of hay, wood, dried manure and saddle leather. I also smell a slight tinge of tobacco and vanilla. Comparing to CdR at this stage, Scandal smells drier, bitter, green, mossy, much more leathery and animalic, and a bit less floral. Both seem to be equally powdery at this point, and I suspect that the iris in the mid notes of Scandal are starting to come out.
Scandal's middle leather stage lasts a couple of hours, and slowly evolves from bitter, dry, almost harsh leather to a softer, creamy leather with floral notes. It never has the sweet, floral-leather which is almost like butter stage that CdR has, but next to Scandal, CdR does not have the same leather prominence throughout the entire development. CdR also seems much more feminine than Scandal, perhaps because it is not nearly as dry and mossy. However, it is at the late middle stage that both Scandal and CdR smell the most alike with refined, softened leather and mildly sweet floral notes (iris and mixed white florals). I didn't smell civet very strongly in Scandal today, but I did smell it from time to time in a previous wearing. The civet (cat-pee and mothball-like notes) in Scandal is restrained--it is much less harsh and edgy than the civet I have smelled in other modern fragrance formulations. It mostly comes out in the late-middle drydown.
In the late development, some incense and sweet (now banned) musks show themselves in Scandal's base. The incense is not like the burned frankincense aromachemical I have smelled in modern perfumes. It is more like a combination of garden sage, which has a smoky quality to it, ash and mild resins. The ash note is almost like burning sage from a sage bundle, so it is not quite the smell of burned tobacco (ie, ashtray smell), but is more herbal, green, dry and medicinal. I am sure there is also some vetiver, which typically adds to the smoky vegetal note, and oakmoss which is very mossy, dry and powdery. In comparison, CdR is still much sweeter and floral, and has completely lost the earlier birch tar smoke note. Scandal is very firmly rooted in the woody leather chypre family with resins and oakmoss in the base. It is a beautiful composition from beginning to end, a joy to wear, and frankly, is what I wish modern leather chypres would be. Sillage is light to moderate, longevity is moderate (skin scent after 6 hours), and it is very wearable for either men or women.
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酸 赞了这篇日记 2013-04-21 21:03:14
