第481回：心有所定御风而行，知行合一平静旷达
【環遊尋美拾遺錄】
【皇氏古建築大全】【黃劍博客圖文集】
【Jumbo Heritage List & The Globetrotting Adventure of Jumbo Huang】
第481回：心有所定御风而行，知行合一平静旷达
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话说我们在博洛尼亚的大街上闲逛时，经过一些教堂，沿途能看到很多特色拱廊，后来我们经过一个教堂前面的广场，看到很多人在路边摆了工艺品，商贩都非常幽默，经过市场后我们就走到了闻名世界的双斜塔了，
我独自爬到98米高的砖塔顶部参观，拍完照片后我又从博洛尼亚近百米高的砖塔吃力地爬下来，然后跟媛一起从柱廊走到正在施工的大马路上，大量铁丝网围住了大街，行人只能在两侧的柱廊行走了。
我们走到双塔前面的街道上仰望高塔，一种强烈的压迫感让我窒息，这么高的一座砖塔，居然没有在世界大战中被炸毁，真是太幸运了。
临近傍晚的时候雨停了，商业街开始热闹起来，一些原本关闭的店铺也开门了，我们走了一会，就陆续看到很多艺人在街头表演，最吸引眼球的是两个年轻人，他们就地取材，用几个塑料桶当鼓，两人居然通过用棍子敲击塑料桶的方式，给路人展示了他们高超的击乐技巧和演奏实力，他们的敲击节奏感非常强烈，很多路人都停下来欣赏他们的音乐。
特别是那位光头男人的敲打技术非常娴熟，我估计他俩出来旅游时乐器被人偷走了，既然是金子，搁那里都会发光，所以在没有乐器的情况下，他们也能用桶和棍子演奏出好听的音乐。
博洛尼亚的街道非常整齐，不愧是意大利珙產黨的大本营，建筑风格非常大气。我们沿大道一直走到了博洛尼亚火车站，我打算先把明后天的火车票提前买了，我让媛先在商业街的柱廊那里等我，然后我过马路去火车站，之前我以为只有母国人闯红灯的，结果到了意大利，才发现当地人也会闯红灯，其实人的本性都是差不多的。
走到火车站，看到意大利旅行公司的两个高挑小姐正在推介高级铁路服务，我过去咨询，结果两个高个子美女不怎么能说英语，感觉她们站在那里就是当摆设的花瓶，我环视车站大厅，
发现意大利国营铁路公司的几个售票窗口都围着上百人，我本来想排队购票的，但看到人工售票窗口排队的人太多了，我只好去自动售票机查看，最先看到的两台先进机器并不能出票，
几个黑人围过来，另外一个意大利人也好奇地问为何这么牛逼的新机器不能买票，我只好又换第三台机器，排队的人只有两个，这时又过来一个黑人跟我搭腔，我前面是一个老太婆在购票，
这个黑人就走过去帮那个老太按机械上的键盘，意思是我帮忙按个键盘，你得给小费，不久轮到我了，旁边的非洲籍贯的黑人又想骚扰我，我拉着他，跟他聊了一下做人的道理，他自讨没趣地走开了。
趁我后面没有人了，我忙拿出钱包，我用信用卡一下子购买了后面几天的火车票，还有发票和订单联，我现在才知道，用自动售票机买火车票方便多了，真不明白为何有那么多人傻乎乎地站在人工售票窗口排队，难道他们不会使用自动售票的机器？还是意大利人太迂腐了，不愿意接受新事物？新思想？？
意大利国营铁路公司的列车分很多种类，有代表红箭的高铁，也有银箭高铁，当然还有慢车了。高铁的车票都贵得离谱。我这次买了好几天的火车票，一共花费了125欧元左右，是两个人的车票。
我买完票就离开人满为患的火车站，这里小偷特别多，黑人难民也跑过来凑热闹了。我过马路找到媛，然后一起走到了公交车站，照旧坐25路公交车，来意大利十天了，第一次碰到公交车可以自动投币的，之前在几个城镇坐公交车都不接受上车购票，乘客必须在小店买好票或者买通票才能上车，但大部份本地人都是没有买票就上车了。
我投币3欧元替媛买了车票，汽车票是75分钟有效，25路汽车的车厢非常长，行驶路线也很长，尽管它的线路比较固定，我们在晚上18点多坐25路公交车到达卡索尼街，
这里有大小两家印度超市，我们去小超市逛，没有发现满意的食物，又走几百米到达另外那家大超市，购买了一大筐樱桃，也叫车厘子，足有一公斤，价格是1.99欧元，至少我们可以说，意大利的车厘子比中国的车厘子要便宜很多。
我们还买了一个大苹果和两包方便面，共花费1.2欧元，过马路后发现一家温州小吃店，里面摆满了中国菜，两个妇女接待我们，但我们打算明天再过来吃，菜单上的价格还算实惠。过了一会我们经过在建的工业区到达了乔凡尼卡索尼路旁边的位于斯大林格勒路82号的交易会酒店，这个酒店高八层左右，是建在公路边比较现代化的新酒店，
酒店大堂非常高档，似乎是中国老板投资兴建的商务酒店，每晚住宿是30欧元，比锡耶纳的酒店便宜一半，虽然上网收费，但我们入住的310房间却非常豪华，有电视和大量英文电台及部分中文频道，还有两个保险柜及冰柜，意外地发现酒店还有热水壶，这是非常罕见的，毕竟我们一直住的是廉价酒店，而且欧洲人长年喝冷水，所以酒店一般不提供热水壶的。
既然这家价格便宜但设施非常高档的酒店什么都有，我们就开始在房间做饭了，我们用热水壶烧了开水，然后在酒店吃方便面，花费不足0.6欧元，洗完澡后媛就开始抄录佛经并朗读。
电视台居然还有BBC等英文频道。酒店有小型的酒吧类饮料，但收费比较贵，我们没有使用他们的食物和饮料。
房间有非常干净的地毯，真皮套的椅子，还配套了梳妆台和近二米长的大镜子，洗手间非常大，沐浴的房间是从洗手间单独隔开的，非常人性化。
晚上睡觉又梦见几个同窗好友了，当一个人开始怀旧时，可能说明他已经变老了，十多年前，也就是2005年，当我去上海出差时，我约上四个在上海的北大同学聚会，当时大家都很穷，都没有结婚，我们五人聊了通宵的天，久久不能入睡，我记得我们宿舍的才子张书熊还给我们吹口琴，北大校花，身材高挑苗条的张玉靖跟我们谈人生，我大学期间的死对头崔阶的前女友王筱给我们讲笑话，大家坐在狭窄的出租屋内的小床上，
天真无邪，恰同学少年，也没有什么芥蒂，曾经在盛大游戏网络工作的丛镇正朝气蓬勃，志向远大地憧憬明天的美好生活。毕业五年，我还在原地踏步，但两个同学已经锋芒毕露，开始步入大型公司的中高管理层了，特别的丛镇，他比同龄人早很多人走向了职业的巅峰。
如今十年过去了，四人中二个女人音讯全无，张书熊早就不住出租屋了，他在上海买了大房子，过了四十还中老年得子，乐不可支，他和很多同窗一样，已经不喜欢使用电话，他喜欢用微信交流；
几年没有跟张玉靖通过电话，如今斗胆拨通电话，没聊三分钟就话不投机半句多了。在国内那种近乎野蛮的商业竞争环境中被蹂躏过的人，我也不期待他们还会有一丝一毫的侠骨柔情，倒是丛镇同学如日中天，前途不可限量，我从丛镇身上发现一个真理：坚持你喜欢的事情，保持积极向上的品德，不一定要非常聪明，假以时日，必然成功。
人肯定会变的，岁月是一把杀猪刀，有时它将一个人砍傻，有时却将一个人微型切整得更加帅气。
读大学时丛镇和邓天懿住我对面的宿舍，当年邓天懿和丛镇差不多高，但邓天懿比丛镇重两到三倍，是个大胖子，但十年过去了，令人震惊的是，邓天懿居然变苗条了，而睡在我上铺的兄弟刘韶华，原本长发飘逸长得像刘德华的，结果现在居然中年秃顶了。
人当然会变的，只是有人变化极大，有人变化极小，我就属于基本没有变化的人，现在随便找一个大学同学，只要他们一看到我，就能一眼认出来，没有任何困难，外表上看，基本没有变化，原因是我头上毛少，现在毛依然少，不存在有些同学年轻时毛多，后来毛变少或者毛变白的问题，
二来我又不会搞整形，自然外表上没有太大变化了。而且读大学时我非常消瘦，整天洗冷水澡，如今近20年过去了，我还是很瘦，甚至体重和高中时期差不多，也经常洗冷水澡，读书时家境贫寒，现在家里也依旧是接近家徒四壁，穷不过三代嘛，一代还很难有改观。过了20年，一些坏习惯依然没有改变，一些好习惯却没有形成。。。
其实做人吧，开心最重要，其它什么都是浮云。
Jumbo Huang citation resources: Diary Notes， Today was Sunday, most shops & stores were closed, Europe was quite different with China, in China, most shops and supermarkets will open the door to attract the visitors even on sunday, on the contrary, Europe shops and supermarkets will close in the weekend, their employees want to take rest and have holidays. We took the Euroline bus and left Siena for Bologna, we headed to Bologna and reached the Autostazione at 11:30am, it was close to the train station, I roughly remembered the booked hotel was close to the train station, even though I did not have correct official map on hand, I just followed up my memory. We headed to Viale Angelo Masini with very heavy backpackers, it was a very tough walking, we walked several kilometers to reach Via Stalingrado, I should take taxi at that point,
but I estimated the distance between the hotel and the train station is around 500meters, but it turned out to be around 8 kilometers, I wrongly estimated the proportional scale, so I asked Iris Jiang to keep walking, we turned left at Via Stalingrado, and moved directly alongside the main street of Via Stalingrado, I took it for granted that from Via Stalingrado No.1 to No.82 was not a big distance, but I was totally underestimated the Via Stalingrado, if we walked from No.1 to No.82, it normally took at least 1 hour by walking, unfortunately we took too much burdens on our back, so we frequently took rest on the way to the hotel, and it was crazy that we found a hotel named “Hotel Bologna Fiera”, the name was very similar to my hotel name of “Hotel Fiera”, but “Hotel Bologna Fiera” was very luxurious and expensive, so we just neglected it and keep going, when we passed Viale Aldo Moro and Via della Liberazione, I crossed check my drafted map, and I felt very sad since we just finished less than half way. I encouraged Iris to keep trying, and after another 1 hour hardship walking, we finally reached our hotel: Hotel Fiera, my Booking Number was 900.857.550, Booking Details2 nights, 1 room,Check in time was from 14:00 to 00:00, totally price for 2person in 2 nights was € 54.55，10 % VAT is included. A City tax of € 5.45 is applicable, charges may vary. The detailed address was: Via Stalingrado 82 40128 Bologna Phone39051377735, the hotel was clean and big, some people were waiting at the lobby since they could not check in before 14pm, we submitted the passport to the counter, the serviceman were very indifferent, he did not smile, he just did the routinely job, after he recorded our passport information, then we put our big backpackers in the hotel, and left the hotel with small backpackers, we soon turned right, walked along Via Giovanni Casoni, passed some residence area, and met a girl from Wenzhou China, she was very nice, she told us how to take bus to the city centre, she personally guided us the direction of the bus station, we chatted with her and found out that she had stayed in Italy for many years. After we passed a Chinese restaurant, we crossed the street, and walked another 200 meters to find the bus station, then we went onto the bus No.25, I paid euro3 to the automatic ticket machines installed on the bus of Transporto Passeggeri Emillia-Romagna, after half an hour, we got off the bus at Mille stop, walked to the end of Via del Mille, there was a big square named Piazza VIII Agosto, some statues and Montagnola park around, we found the Macdonald’s, it supposed to be cheap, we went in and booked some food, such as MenuCL Big Mac, Sprite 0.4L, Patae Cl Menu, Crispy Bac, Ketchup etc, the Macdonald’s located at Family Restaurant SPA, Piazza VIII Agosto,31, 40126 PI 05304680639 Bologna, there was very crowded in the Macdonald’s, if we want to use the toilet, we had to input the password which printed on the invoice slip. The lunch was far more expensive for us. We regretted to eat here. It began to rain, we walked to the city centre, in order to avoid the rain, we had to walk under the corridor, it was basically a morden business districts, lots of stores and shops but all closed the door, except the stores closed to the double towers, but the main street was under construction, most of roads was blocked. Bologna was the largest city and the capital of the Emilia-Romagna Region in Italy. It is the seventh most populous city in Italy, located in the heart of a metropolitan area of about one million. The first settlements date back to at least 1000 BC. The city has been an urban centre, first under the Etruscans and the Celts, then under the Romans, then again in the Middle Ages, as a free municipality. Home to the oldest university in the Europe, The University of Bologna, founded in 1088, is the oldest university in the western world, third in the entire world, and was an important centre of European intellectual life during the Middle Ages, attracting scholars from throughout Christendom. A unique heritage of medieval art, exemplified by the illuminated manuscripts and jurists' tombs produced in the city from the 13th to the 15th centuries, provides a cultural backdrop to the renown of the medieval institution. The Studium, as it was originally known, began as a loosely organized teaching system with each master collecting fees from students on an individual basis. The location of the early University was thus spread throughout the city, with various colleges being founded to support students of a specific nationality. Bologna hosts thousands of students who enrich the social and cultural life of the city. Famous for its towers and lengthy porticoes, Bologna has a well-preserved historical centre, one of the largest in Italy, thanks to a careful restoration and conservation policy which began at the end of the 1970s, on the heels of serious damage done by the urban demolition at the end of the 19th century as well as that caused by wars. An important cultural and artistic centre, its importance in terms of landmarks can be attributed to a varied mixture of monuments and architectural examples (medieval towers, antique buildings, churches, the layout of its historical centre) as well as works of art which are the result of a first class architectural and artistic history. Bologna is also an important transportation crossroad for the roads and trains of Northern Italy, where many important mechanical, electronic and nutritional industries have their headquarters. Bologna is the first Italian city and the 47th European city in terms of its economic growth rate, we could see many Chinese workers around here and some Chinese boss even built clothes factories in the city, Bologna is home to numerous prestigious cultural, economic and political institutions as well as one of the most impressive trade fair districts in Europe. In 2000 it was declared European capital of culture and in 2006, a UNESCO “city of music”. Bologna is also one of the wealthiest cities in Italy, often ranking as one of the top cities in terms of quality of life in the country. I did not have any interests on the economic development of the cities, I only cared about the ancient buildings and structures in the old city. Until the late 19th century, when a large-scale urban renewal project was undertaken, Bologna remained one of the few remaining large walled cities in Europe; to this day and despite having suffered considerable bombing damage in 1944, Bologna's 350 acres historic centre is Europe's second largest, containing an immense wealth of important medieval, renaissance, and baroque artistic monuments. Bologna developed along the Via Emilia as an Etruscan and later Roman colony; the Via Emilia still runs straight through the city under the changing names of Strada Maggiore, Rizzoli, Ugo Bassi, and San Felice. Due to its Roman heritage, the central streets of Bologna, today largely pedestrianized, follow the grid pattern of the Roman settlement. The original Roman ramparts were supplanted by a high medieval system of fortifications, remains of which are still visible, and finally by a third and final set of ramparts built in the 13th century, of which numerous sections survive. No more than twenty medieval defensive towers remain out of up to 180 that were built in the 12th and 13th centuries before the arrival of unified civic government. The most famous of the towers of Bologna are the central "Due Torri" (Asinelli and Garisenda), whose iconic leaning forms provide a popular symbol of the town. The cityscape is further enriched by its elegant and extensive porticoes, for which the city is famous. In total, there are some 38 kilometres (24 miles) of porticoes in the city's historical centre, which make it possible to walk for long distances sheltered from the elements. The Portico di San Luca is possibly the world's longest. It connects Porta Saragozza with the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, a church begun in 1723 on the site of an 11th-century edifice which had already been enlarged in the 14th century, prominently located on a hill overlooking the town, which is one of Bologna's main landmarks. The winding 666 vault arcade, almost four kilometres long, effectively links San Luca, as the church is commonly called, to the centre of town. Its porticos provide shelter for the traditional procession which every year since 1433 has carried a Byzantine icon of the Madonna with Child attributed to Luke the Evangelist down to the Bologna Cathedral during Ascension week. After we strolled around for half an hour, we began to focus on the symbol of Bologna, the Two Towers, both of them leaning, it was the most prominent of the Towers of Bologna. They are located at the intersection of the roads that lead to the five gates of the old ring wall. The taller one is called the Asinelli while the smaller but more leaning tower is called the Garisenda. Their names possibly derived from the families which are traditionally credited for their construction between 1109 and 1119. Since Iris Jiang was very tired, I ask her to take rest at the ground floor, and I went upstairs to buy the tickets to summit the top, It was very tough since there was thousands of steps, I went on with several pretty European young ladies whom all wear short pants and flat shoes, they were even taller than me, and they climbed very fast, I had to followed up with them, finally we reached the top of the tower, and the views was fantastic, we could saw all the buildings and streets from all directions, it was windy but very worthy the money. I spent lots of time to take pictures on the top. It is believed that the Asinelli Tower initially had a height of 70 m and was raised only later to the current 97.2 m, with an overhanging battlement of 2.2 m. if included the basement, we could considered it as 100 meters high. In the 14th century the city became its owner and used it as a prison and small stronghold. During this period a wooden construction was added around the tower at a height of 30 m above ground, which was connected with an aerial footbridge. Its addition is attributed to Giovanni Visconti, Duke of Milan, who allegedly wanted to use it to control the turbulent Mercato di Mezzo and suppress possible revolts. The Visconti had become the rulers of Bologna after the decline of the Signoria of the Pepoli family, but were rather unpopular in the city. Severe damage was caused by lightning that often resulted in small fires and collapses, and only in 1824 was a lightning rod installed. The tower survived, however, at least two documented large fires: the first in 1185 was due to arson and the second one in year 1398. The Asinelli Tower was used by the scientists Giovanni Battista Riccioli and Giovanni Battista Guglielmini for experiments to study the motion of heavy bodies and the earth rotation. In World War II, between 1943 and 1945, it was used as a sight post: During bombing attacks, four volunteers took post at the top to direct rescue operations to places hit by Allied bombs. Later, a RAI television relay was installed on top. During the 1960s, architect Minoru Yamasaki used the Towers as inspiration for his work on the World Trade Center. I could saw Garisenda Tower closed to it, and Garisenda Tower today has a height of 48 m with an overhang of 3.2 m. Initially it was approximately 60 m high, but had to be lowered in the 14th century due to a yielding of the ground which left it slanting and dangerous. In the early 15th century, the tower was bought by the Arte dei Drappieri, which remained the sole owner until the Garisenda became municipal property at the end of the 19th century. Garisenda Tower looks very dangerous since it was leaning, both towers had very solid black crystal stone basement, I never thought the wooden steps could be maintained to nowadays, after nearly one thousands year, the ca.100meter brick tower could still be free standing, that’s a miracles. Between the 12th and the 13th century, the number of towers in the city was very high, possibly up to 180. The reasons for the construction of so many towers are not clear. One hypothesis is that the richest families used them for offensive/defensive purposes during the period of the Investiture Controversy. Besides the towers, one can still see some fortified gateways that correspond to the gates of the 12th-century city wall, which itself has been almost completely destroyed. During the 13th century, many towers were taken down or demolished, and others simply collapsed. Many towers have subsequently been utilized in one way or the other: as prison, city tower, shop or residential building. The last demolitions took place during the 20th century, according to an ambitious, but retrospectively unfortunate, restructuring plan for the city. The Artenisi Tower and the Riccadonna Tower at the Mercato di mezzo were demolished in 1917. Of the numerous towers originally present, fewer than twenty can still be seen today. I could saw many churches from the top of the Asinelli Tower, such as one of the world's largest churches of Basilica of San Petronio, Basilica of Santo Stefano and sanctuary, Basilica of San Domenico and sanctuary, Basilica of St Francis, Basilica of Santa Maria dei Servi, Basilica of San Giacomo Maggiore(featuring Renaissance artworks such as the Bentivoglio Altarpiece by Lorenzo Costa) and Church of San Michele in Bosco etc. After took the photos, I came down to the bottom of the tower, met with Iris, and walked around the old city, we passed some old streets and sites such as: Via dell’ Indipendenza, Parco Montagnola, Pinacoteca Nazionale, Chiese E Monumenti, Basilica-Santuario di San Domenico, Basilica-Santuario di Santo Stefano, Basilica di San Francesco, Palazzo D’Accursio, Le Due Torri, Assinelli e Garisenda, Cattedrale Metropolitana di San Pietro etc. eventually we walked to the Bologna train station, I bought some tickets from the auto-ticket machines, there were many black refugees strolled around the lobby, we saw two slim beauties stand in front of the promotion desk, they belonged to Viaggia Con Italo Company, I consulted with the girls, they did not speak good English, I had to research the train system, and found the difference between Frecciarossa and Frecciargento tickets, I used credit card to buy the train tickets, the details as below: Gruppo Ferrovie Dello stato Italiane, documento fiscale, EUR38; from Bologna Central to Rimini, EUR9.5 per person, total EUR19;Via Faenza; from Rimini to Bologna Central, EUR9.5 per person, total EUR19; Via Faenza. From Bologna Central to Venezia S Lucia EUR 12.1 per person, Via Ferrara, Padova. 18.06,10.05, then from Venezia S Lucia to Milano Centrale, EUR 37.5 per person, use Visa.Treno 9714 Carrozza 006,Posti 15D Finestrino Posto 2 Classe, Base POS. I went out the train station, walked to the bus station, got on the 25 bus with Iris, I bought 3euro tickets for two persons, and reached our hotel located in Via Stalingrado 82. The hotel was very nice and modern with many advanced electronic equipment such as the kettle and refrigerator,
the room was very clean and spacious with private toilet. After took shower I began to research the Italian Communist Party, PCI for short, The PCI was founded as Communist Party of Italy on 21 January 1921 in Livorno, by seceding from the Italian Socialist Party (PSI). Amadeo Bordiga and Antonio Gramsci led the split. Outlawed during the Fascist regime, the party played a major part in the Italian resistance movement. It changed its name in 1943 to PCI and became the second largest political party of Italy after World War II, attracting the support of about a third of the voters during the 1970s. At the time it was the largest communist party in the West, nearly 2.3 million members in 1947 and 34.4% of the vote in 1976, what a remarkable and unforgettable period for Italy communist. But in 1991 the PCI, which had travelled a long way from doctrinaire communism to democratic socialism by the 1970's or the 1980's, evolved into the Democratic Party of the Left (PDS), which joined the Socialist International and the Party of European Socialists. The more radical members of the party left to form the Communist Refoundation Party (PRC). The party played a major role during the national liberation (Resistenza) and in the April 1944 after the Svolta di Salerno, Togliatti agreed to cooperate with the king so the communists took part in every government during the national liberation and constitutional period from June 1944 to May 1947. The communists' contribution to the new Italian democratic constitution was decisive. The Gullo decrees of 1944, for instance, sought to improve social and economic conditions in the countryside. The PCI's municipal showcase was Bologna, which was held continuously by the PCI from 1945 onwards. Amongst other measures, the local PCI administration tackled urban problems with successful programmes of health for the elderly, nursery education, and traffic reform, while also undertaking initiatives in housing and school meal provisions. From 1946 to 1956, the Communist city council built 31 nursery schools, 896 flats, and 9 schools. Health care improved substantially, street lighting was installed, new drains and municipal launderettes were built, and 8000 children received subsidised school meals. In 1972, the then-mayor of Bologna, Renato Zangheri, introduced a new and innovative traffic plan with strict limitations for private vehicles and a renewed concentration on cheap public transport. Bologna's social services continued to expand throughout the early and mid-Seventies. The city centre was restored, centres for the mentally sick were instituted to help those who had been released from recently closed psychiatric hospitals, handicapped persons were offered training and found suitable jobs, afternoon activities for schoolchildren were made less mindless than the traditional after-school activities, and school programming for the whole day helped working parents. Communists administrations at a local level also helped to aid new businesses while also introducing innovative social reforms, that’s the reason why I like Bologna so much, the city was so great under the leadership of Italy Communist party, I even did not see any beggars on the clean and wide streets, the whole city looked orderly and harmonious, Bologna was, and will be the best city administration model in the western world in my point of views. While I recorded my journey on the notebooks in Hotel Fiera Belogna, Iris was copying the Buddhist Scripture daily, she became very devoted after she met some Buddhist in China, but she was sad that there was no Buddhist organization in Italy, she asked me to build some Buddhist temples & parties in Europe, but I lacked refund.
