熙攘的沉默 The Loud Silence

                
                
      
  『一、客栈 Tavern』
    那天是在夜里到达的，走到小镇门口，汽车已经无法行驶，只有行人，穿着布鞋走在石板路上。灯火淡淡的，却是很阑珊。
    很凑巧，客栈停电了。跨过木头门槛的时候，身边一个南方的姑娘突然点燃了一根红烛。能够被照亮的范围并不大，只有脚下正要过的小拱桥，与小溪里缓缓游动的金鱼。房间是小巧的，有个秀气的小阁楼，上面是一张小床，和简易的茶室。一个人在客栈里，拥一枝孤烛到天明。
   云南有自己的味道，是那种清淡的，掺杂着草香和花香，没有浮躁，与首都截然不同。
   第二天清早，我被喈喈鸟鸣叫醒。打开门拴，碌碌晨光洒落一地，也洒落在门前那条小溪上。
I just arrived at night. The car doesn’t work within the small town, all the road was made in slate. Unfortunately, there was no electron that night, so a little girl lit a candle to me. I could only see the little river and golden fish in it. The room was not big, but enough to me. I spent all the night with the candle.
Yunnan had its own smell, it was unique and different from Beijing.
In tomorrow morning, I was woke up by the bird voice. I open the traditional door, The sunbeam go through in the room.
                
                
                
                
                
                
                
                
    
一位看似年过花甲的长者，坐在藤椅上，手里捧着一盏碧螺春，仰头，闭眼，享受这个慢悠悠的气氛。然后轻轻抿了一口， 说了句：“七碗受至味”
    云南的茶甚是出众，也难怪，这样慢悠悠的城市里，茶这种慢悠悠的饮品，在这里才是最可口的。
    我想长者的意思应该是，品茶如同品人生吧。七碗才能知晓他真正的味道，一开始浓烈，慢慢地变得清淡，最后才知道，就是最后那种平淡如水的味道，才是人生真正的意义。
   An old man lied on the cane chair, with a cup of tea. He raised his head, closed his eyes, to enjoy the leisure atmosphere. He drank it.
Yunnan’s tea was eminence. Indeed, in this leisure city, tea is appropriate.
I thought the old man was meaning the tea as well as life. Only experience lots of time to understand the life.
                
                
『二、古鎮 Ancient Town 』
    古镇和整个城市一样， 什么都是淡淡的，食物，景色，人情。洁白无瑕的饵块，配上青涩的蔬菜，油盐很少，味道清淡而可口。青山黛瓦在云雾中伫立，朦胧无比。人们没有那样火烈，却也浑身上下散发着欢快的气息。像是一碗无味的清水。
    我想，这样的一个小镇很容易发生一则则故事吧。就算是刚烈的人，都会被这清风抚摸得柔软，被花容月貌所感染。我也一直在设想，会不会有一霎那，偶遇知己。相逢何必曾相识，就像我与这古镇相识一样。人塑造景，景塑造人。
The Ancient town was just like the whole city. Everything was soft, food, scenery and people. The rice slurp with vegetable was such delicious. Bricks was in the cloud like dim moonlight.
I thought the town was easy to exist a story, cause the scenery and tone were good set. The moon and flower touched everyone. i looked forward to met a friend. People contributed the scenery, and the scenery touched people as well.
                
                
                
                
拿着手中那杯叫做“风花雪月”的啤酒，想起曾经这里发生的故事，或许那些民间的小事才叫做风花和雪月。
远处有象牙白的房子和青色的屋顶，如同面前一碗清凉的羹，淡淡的，却令人回味。走在石板路上，忽见脚边那一尺大小的方水池，里面盛的是山泉，左边的一角已残缺，看得出年岁已久。大理总是这样，有一点点残缺，却真实，自然。或许云南自己人对这样的美感已经麻木，并不知这是一种不可多得的财富，对于这样的侘寂之美，或许只有外来的人才能体会到吧。
The white house and cyan roof was like the water, cool and meaningful. I took a walk on the road, suddenly saw a little pool, it was broken, but still beautiful. That was Dali, a city with little deformity, but it was real and nature. Perhaps the local people couldn’t feel it, for me, that was the treasure.
                
                
      
不可否认，这里必然是古色古香，可是这种“古”并不因为青砖黛瓦，而是透在空气中，溶在水里的。就像一个腹有诗书气自华的女子，清水出芙蓉，气质流在骨髓里，别人模仿只能是东施效颦。此之谓“骨中古彻”。
      想起那阕 “香非在蕊，香非在萼，骨中香彻。”
It would be acknowledged, that there was full of ancient atmosphere. It was not just what we see, but what we fell. Just like an elegant lady who read lots of books, the acknowledges had been froze in her heart, and be forever.
    小水池一只，郁金香花瓣一片，都在不为人知的角落里。大理的朦胧美总是体现在不为人知的角落里。
    一花一草，一山一水，一砖一瓦，一城一事，一人一墨。这激起了我最初的梦。愿当一个如李清照那样多情的女子，像杨绛先生那样的大师，当一个作家，一本书，一支笔，一生挥毫翰墨。这里一定是作家心爱的地方，原来一个人脑海中的天马行空真的可以源于山水间.
The beauty was always be known by a few of people. The flower, the grass, the mountain, the river. Everything touched me and reminded be a nature dream—to be a writer, with one book and one pen, be happy, be free.That was where all the writer liked.
                
                
                
                
                
                
『三、夜色 The Moonlight』
古城的四方街，在夜晚座落着相连的酒吧，每一个富有古色的小门里，都传出不一样的音乐。人们在酒吧一条街悠闲地走着，左右观望，仿佛时间慢了几分几秒。
一个叫做“醉乡民谣”的酒吧在暗光下伫立, 純白的马蹄莲在门口的水槽里绽放，灯光照着花瓣上的水珠，闪闪发亮。
There was a bar street in the night, music went through from every bar. People walked in the street slowly, looked around, the time seemed like became more slowly.
 A bar called “Folk Rhyme” was there, I walked in it.
驻唱歌手夏夏也同样是这里的老板，她和她的乐队成员是千百个追梦音乐的年轻人，就像当年的父亲一样。我因为“醉乡民谣”这四个字走近这家不大却热闹的酒吧，点了半打科洛娜，去尝尝那个“醉乡”
Summer was the lovely singer, with her band members, they were all the young people that was fond of music. Just like my father. I walked in the bar because of the name “Folk Rhyme”. I ordered a jar of Corona.
                
                
                
                
   就像眼前这个年轻的吉他手，一提到音乐便兴致勃勃，滔滔不绝，仿佛一个老朋友，不知是否几年前曾形影不离。如此，便是 “相逢何必曾相识”。
The young men who sited in front of me. When he talk about music, the happiness was full of the atmosphere. because of the interests, we could meet friends everywhere.
    
    下面我们说说“民谣”，这是父亲最爱的音乐形式。80年代刚刚年过弱冠的父亲背着一把木吉他，与那些和他一样的年轻人追着音乐梦，他们的心中装着初心，想着只要努力一定能够到达彼岸，可最后，终于屈服于命运，背叛了他们的初心。是否能够得到始终已不再重要，因为今天，依然有一群背着破木吉他或小手鼓的年轻人，在街角的酒吧里给一个个酩酊酒徒唱歌：愿我的梦随着你的金黄液体一醉方休。
For the” Folk Rhyme”, That was my father’s favorite form of music. When dad was 20 years old, he always sing with a guitar as well as other young men that liked music. The thought that if put effort, They would get success. However, finally they chose to follow their destiny.
It was not important for the result, cause there was still lots of young men to follow their dream.
                
                
     
    父亲爱着民谣，我却爱着我的舒伯特和肖邦。他常常拿着一把木吉他弹那些小调的民谣给我听，我却选择了钢琴，选择了漆黑发亮的豪华，选择了我梦中的维也纳金色大厅。我喜爱蓝色多瑙河，喜爱费加罗的婚礼，喜爱聚光灯下歌剧中的故事。我享受着祖父灌输给我对皇家音乐的热爱，沉迷于指挥棒下的金碧辉煌。可是如今，让我流泪的却是简单到只有一种节奏型的民谣，和那把父亲已经搁浅的破木吉他。
My father liked folk rhyme, but I was fond of Schubert and Chopin. He always play guitar to me, but I chose piano, to chose the Vienna’s Golden Hall. I loved “ the Blue Danube.”, it was my favorite melody. I appreciated to my grandfather, that taught me to feel the opera. I also liked the baton. However, I was touched by the simple melody—Folk Rhyme.
                
                
『四、国度 The Nation』
 
     从洱海的一岸到达另一岸，走下游轮的时候便看到一片喧嚣繁忙，鳞次节比，小渔村甚是热闹。紧接着就注意到这条字符。
    ”资产变股权，社员当股东。” 乍一看，这十个字并无特别之处，只是仔细端详，再联想这样熙熙攘攘的场面：每家店都有个小门脸儿，当地人正在做些小鱼小虾，依山傍水，靠着自然生存。那些穿戴者民族服饰的女人都在一起席地而坐，谈笑风生，几家人都变成了一个大家族。
I went down from the boat, There was busy far. Then I notice the characters, it would mean that everyone was the shareholder, they lived together, I mean to say, different nationality mixed together. Lots of women from different nation chat with each other. The families became a whole nation.
                
                
     原来如此，小渔村的人民将自己的不动产提供出来，一起组成旅游区，每个人都投进了自己的股份，供出自己的房子，并一起开店，连在一起成为集市。一路走着，听着我听不懂的吆喝，看到左右墙壁上都写着“民族一家亲”的字样，我突然意识到，这里已经出现了最先进的社会制度：共产主义。
    整个中国都在在努力地向共同繁荣前进，在外面那个浮躁的景象中，殊不知已有南方渔村，出现了令人向往的乌托邦与和平盛世。
    这样经济并没有跟得上时代的地方，却生得像是个桃花源，悠闲，平静， 突然意识到陶潜那句：“归去来兮，请息交以结游。
 I understood, people from the fishing village took out their freehold to contributed a fair, they made money together, no government, no king, that was the Utopia. I realized that it was the most advanced ideology—Communism.
The whole country was struggling to be prosperous together, but there was a fishing village,that was the ideal Utopia.
The village was not following the modern time, but it just liked a peaceful place called “Taohuayuan”.
                
                
『后记 Postscript』
     如今我才发觉，小资产阶级可以分为很多种，可以是张爱玲笔下的老上海舞厅，可以是阁楼中的留声机，可以是伦敦街上斯迈森皮具店，也可以是这里，云南。云南古镇的小资
非源于所谓的“资产”，而源于一种心境。长居这里的人仿佛有些坐井观天，偏偏是这两耳
不闻窗外事的心境，这自命不凡和流在骨髓里的文化民族主义，感染了这座与世界分离的小城。
   
离开这里回北国之前，我看到漫天的海鸥在翠湖上盘旋。那些从西伯利亚来过冬的海鸥像是也被温润的景色感染，慵懒地享受旅人们向天空抛去的食物，在蓝天上荡着秋千。
 
   何为 “仙人有待乘黄鹤，海客无心随白鸥”？
I award, there were many categories of petty bourgeoisie, It would be the ballroom by Zhang Ailing, the gramophone in the attic, the Smythson, and here, Yunnan. The petty bourgeoisie was not from the “property”, but from the emotion. The people here was all the cultural nationalists, they protect their own culture from other nations. That was the reason that they always enjoy in the scenery.
Before I leaved here, I saw several of sea-gull hovered over the lake, they came from Siberia and hibernated here. Perhaps they felt the atmosphere in the lake, flied far away.
   
                
                
   
     惟愿来世生在这苍山洱海之间，成为一株郁金香，一棵树，一滴水，一朵云，唱尽这世间的后庭花。
 I just hoped someday I could be a tulip, a tree, a drop of water, or a cloud, to be free and stood aloof from the worldly affairs.