【BC游记/翻译】2011-11-25 福尔摩斯的假期：BC塞舌尔群岛之旅
Title: Holiday Holmes: Benedict Cumberbatch in the Seychelles
Date: 25 Nov 2011
By Benedict Cumberbatch
【广告时间：想探求偶像的精神世界？想了解偶像眼中的人间天堂？想知道偶像不为人知的嗜好品味？缺亲随笔不可不读。BC在塞舌尔群岛的假期见闻将为你揭示偶像的冰山一角，全文翻译附在后面】
原文：http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/lifestyle/esmagazine/article-24014314-holiday-holmes-benedict-cumberbatch-in-the-seychelles.do
Nestled off the coast of East Africa, the Seychelles lie firmly within the tropics, jewels of green in an otherwise aquamarine expanse of Indian Ocean. They are famed for their beautiful beaches; the white sand, palm trees and rounded black granite rocks make the islands the very definition of paradise. And once I heard that this was the destination of choice for Wills and Kate's honeymoon... well, how could I argue with royalty?
Approaching the island, I found myself doing my best Lord Attenborough impression: 'Welcome to Jurassic Park!' The darker ocean gives way to the sparkling turquoise of the shoreline and the famed white beaches, behind which endless tropical vegetation stretches back to the foothills of immense granite mountains. The sight was intoxicating. In the early morning the first thing that hit me was the humidity and smell, both alien and alluring, a reminder (as if I needed one) that I really was far from home.
My hillside pool villa at the Banyan Tree Seychelles resort on the south-west coast of the island of Mahé opened on to a decked terrace with an infinity plunge pool and Jacuzzi, all perched on top of the rocks and surrounded by trees, with an uninterrupted view over the ocean. Through a shuttered sliding door lay a bathroom with a sunken tub perfectly positioned for a romantic stargazing bath for two. Everything in the resort was geared for honeymoon levels of smooching romance. I quickly learned a basic but crucial lesson: never come to paradise alone.
Anything you could possibly need, from maps, to guides, carhire, a doctor, suggested evening hangouts and excursions, the resort staff will happily arrange. But you won't want to venture far without first trying the epic breakfasts (every type of fruit, juice, pastry, cold meat, cooked breakfast, curry and local speciality you can imagine). The main reason I was in the Seychelles was for some serious R and R, so my first appointment was for a signature Thai massage. Reclining, post-treatment on the spa veranda as the sun set was one of those moments of tranquillity where I couldn't believe my luck. Then, as if it couldn't have got any better, I saw my first fruit bat. Those things are prehistorically big: 'Welcome to Jurassic park... again!' Suddenly, the air seemed to fill with 'flying foxes' as they are known locally, waking up for their evening feeding session - and later providing the vital service of shitting all over the islands, therefore ensuring plant dispersement.
As the stars rose I drifted down to the beach for a swim in a haze of post-massage calm. As I bobbed around, some of the bats broke off for a dip in the sea. Surrounded by all this magic I did a length of the bay and by the time I stepped out of the shallows the bioluminescence of tiny plankton lit up every movement of my body through the water. It's impossible to do the experience justice in words but it was one that I repeated most evenings. I rounded off the day with dinner at one of the three in-house restaurants. It was fish night, with scallops, bouillabaisse, and job fish (a filling, fleshy fish) on the menu, followed by white chocolate parfait with passion fruit jelly, raspberry jus and dark chocolate. Out of this world and reasonably priced.
I was keen to get my flippers on, even though I had been told that a particularly hot El Niño in the 1990s had done substantial damage to the sea life and coral. But I wanted to find out for myself, so the following morning, having overslept, I rushed off with a Tupperware container of breakfast (the smiling resourcefulness of the dining staff was one of the best aspects of my stay). With my Panama hat and Hawaiian shirt, I was a cliché of the hapless Brit abroad, so no wonder a loitering man who looked like a well-tanned walrus gave a smoky laugh: 'Didn't want to you miss your breakfast, then?' Leo, a Dutchman, flashed a smile and my diving adventures on Mahé began.
The joy of being out on the ocean and my first view of the dramatic coastline was transfixing. We headed for a site called Adam's Apple, named for the rock that marks the dive spot. Diving is like meditation: the serenity of the weightlessness, the buoyancy that enables you to swim with the fish , the noise of the slow inhaling and exhaling of pressurised air, the fascinating landscape of coral and rock on the seabed, and the inhabitants of this otherworldly space. Over the next couple of days I swam with giant barracudas, white-tipped reef sharks, humphead parrot fish, chocolate dips, lobsters, turtles, angel fish and stingrays. For my money, the variety of dive sites and sea life in the Seychelles is on a par with both Cuba and Mozambique.
After that I rented a car (the smallest I could find to try to avoid being hit by the careering local buses) and asked for directions to a good local beach. Everyone I met was friendly and willing to help, but some of the directions weren't very reliable. After a winding descent past waterfalls I broke through the cool shade of the forest canopy and the most beautiful golden sunshine afternoon spread before me. Glaud Bay is the most quintessentially laid-back Seychellois experience, a tiny village boasting little more than a church and a bar. After a dip I kicked back with a beer, a plate of delicious grilled fish and a killer creme caramel in the warm sunshine and surveyed the bay, with Bob Marley singing on the radio. Everything felt like it was gonna be alright.
On my way back I stopped at Maria's Rock Café. It's an oddity that must be experienced, a Dali-esque raft built around a granite outcrop and littered with some pretty racy sculptures. The lovely staff, headed by the ever-smiling Maria, bring ingredients for you to cook at your table on paraffin-candle heated rocks. Once the oil starts smoking, you chuck on prawns and chicken and whatever else takes your fancy. The mixture of surf and turf is fresh and, with generous portions of homemade relishes your appetite is the only guide to how much and how quickly the food should be eaten. It's full-on, sweaty, sticky-fingered fun and definitely a child-friendly experience (although you might have to avert their eyes from the more explicit artworks and ask the artist responsible, Maria's Italian boyfriend, not to perform his more risqué magic tricks).
Before I knew it my time at Banyan Tree was up and I saddled up onto a local charter flight that took me straight to my next stop, the island of Praslin. I was to stay at La Reserve resort at the invitation of Peter Mountford, the charming British manager who took over the running of the hotel from his parents, only to be saddled with the unenviable task of rebuilding the whole resort after the 2004 tsunami. He gave me a few home truths about running a hotel in the Seychelles. The daily headache seems to be trying to accommodate the demands of Western diets at the breakfast buffet; apparently fights can break out over boxes of kiwis and other non-indigenous fruits at the local market.
I took off for a day-trip around the nearby island of La Digue. There are regular ferries and once there all you need to get around are your two feet and a rented bike - the tiny island's 2,000 inhabitants are only too helpful with directions and a smile. Following the path to the beaches of Anse Source d'Argent you realise why they are often voted the best in the world: a series of small, golden coves separated by gigantic granite boulders weathered into the most extraordinary shapes by time. Sheltered by a reef, the sea is shallow and calm, perfect for snorkelling and sunbathing. But even in paradise it seems there are possessive tourists with towels and even later in the day there was a race to find a perfect spot. As I basked, a French beauty and her friends passed by, snapping photographs as they went. It was only as her beautiful bottom wiggled out of view that I realised it was in fact Emmanuelle Bé art.
Back on Praslin, I hired a car to explore, stopping for roadside fruit juices, curried fish, a few final night swims and a day-trip to see the deliciously rude coco de mer nut and catch a rare glimpse of a native black parrot. The trek through the well-labelled reservation is best done at an amble as the humidity climbs while you navigate the steep, airless paths. But it is fascinating.
I spent a lazy final day on Anse Lazio beach and with that my time was up. The Seychelles is a paradise on earth and the islanders and their smiling welcome will ensure that you will never want to leave. But don't panic, you can always return. I know I will.
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参考译文：
位于东非海岸附近的塞舌尔群岛，在蓝宝石般的印度洋中宛如一块充满热带风情的碧绿翡翠。
它们以美丽的海滩而闻名遐迩；白色细沙、棕榈树与圆润的黑色花岗岩构成了天堂般的群岛。我被告知这里还是威廉王子和凯特王妃的蜜月圣地...嗯，我有什么理由不赞同皇室的选择呢？
一靠近这座岛，我的脑海里就浮现出Attenborough爵士的那句：“欢迎来到侏罗纪公园！”深色的海水逐渐被碧光粼粼的海岸线和著名的白色沙滩所代替，后面衬着一望无际的热带植被，一路延伸到巨大的花岗岩山麓。眼前的景象令人陶醉。清晨，我最先触及到的就是湿润和气息，陌生而又诱人，提醒我已远离家乡。
【 Lord Attenborough，即Richard Attenborough，演过《侏罗纪公园》里面的让恐龙复活的坏老板——译者注】
我下榻的泳池别墅位于塞舌尔榕树酒店，属于马埃岛的西南岸，拥有双层露台，附带无边泳池和按摩浴池，总体建筑坐落于岩顶，四周环树，再配上一览无余的无敌海景。打开百叶拉门，浴室中有一方双人浴缸，完全为情侣浪漫观星浴量身打造。这个度假圣地里的一切都适用于蜜月中随时随地的缠绵。我很快认清了一个很简单但是也很残酷的事实：永远不该独自只身天堂。
酒店的工作人员乐于帮你搞定你可能需要的任何东西，从地图，到导游、租车、医生、晚上的好去处和远足项目。不过你决不会愿意错过与豪华早餐的第一次亲密接触而匆匆上路(早餐包括各种水果、果汁、糕点、冷盘肉、熟食、咖喱和各种你可以想象的当地特产)。我来塞舌尔主要是为了彻底的休闲放松，因此我的第一站就是特色泰式按摩。理疗过后，斜卧在Spa门廊上看日落，心底弥漫着一种难以置信的宁静。然后，我无比幸运地看见了人生第一只食果蝙蝠。这些家伙像史前动物那么庞大，仿佛有个声音再次说道“欢迎来到侏罗纪公园！”突然，空中满是这种蝙蝠，当地人称它们为“飞狐”，它们在黄昏醒来觅食——随后它们会在全岛提供排泄服务，以保障岛上的植被分布。
【R and R =rest and recreation】
星星升上天空，我漫无目的地走到海滩，伴着按摩之后的那种平和心境在海里游泳。当我四处游动的时候，一些蝙蝠俯冲下来探入海水中。在这些神奇景象的围绕下，我游完了整个海湾。在我迈出浅滩时，微小浮游生物的磷光从海水中照亮了我的每一个动作。那景象难以用语言描绘，而我几乎每晚都再重复这样的奇遇。我在三个室内餐厅中的一家享受了晚餐，为这一天画上了圆满的句号。这是一场海鲜大餐，菜单上有扇贝、马赛鱼汤，还有job fish(一种夹馅的肉质鱼)，接着还有白巧克力冻糕，配有果冻、覆盆子酱和黑巧克力。品质非凡而又价格公道。
我急切的想穿上脚蹼去潜水，虽然我被告知九十年代时一场严重的厄尔尼诺现象严重破坏了这里海洋生命和珊瑚，但是我想亲眼一探究竟，所以第二天一早，由于睡过了头，我带着装有早餐的特百惠餐盒就匆匆上路了(餐厅侍者的善解人意和随机应变太赞了)。头戴巴拿马草帽，身穿夏威夷衬衫，一派悲催的经典英式度假造型，无怪乎一位酷似晒黑了的海象的路人吐着烟圈笑道：“你不情愿错过这里的早餐吧？”(潜水教练)荷兰人Leo脸上闪过一丝笑意，我的马埃岛潜水探险就这么开始了。
出海后第一次看到绵长海岸线的喜悦让我惊呆了。我们向一处被称作Adam's Apple的地点进发，它因一块标志着潜水点的岩石而得名。潜水就像一种冥想：失重的宁静感，和鱼儿共游的悬浮感，缓缓呼吸压缩空气的声音，海床上珊瑚礁的迷人景观，再加上居住于这个奇异世界的生物。接下来的几天，大梭鱼、白鳍礁鲨、隆头鹦哥鱼、光鳃鱼、龙虾、海龟、神仙鱼还有黄貂鱼，就在我身边游动。在我看来，塞舌尔群岛潜水点的数量之多、海底风光之美，足以与古巴和莫桑比克相提并论。【原文中的各种鱼名真让人头大= = 随后为您带来Pancy秘制科普小贴士；感谢Dr.黄兔君提供chocolate dip~】
随后，我租了一辆车(特意找了一辆最小的，为了尽量躲避横冲直撞的当地巴士)，边开边问去沙滩的路。我遇见的所有人都很友好、乐于助人，不过有些路指得不太靠谱。我沿着一条蜿蜒的坡路经过瀑布，随后冲出了森林冠层的清凉荫蔽，午后最美的金色阳光在我面前平铺开来。Glaud Bay是塞舌尔式的悠然自得的最典型代表，这个小村庄小到仅有一家教堂和一家酒馆。在酒馆小憩之后，我带着一罐啤酒，一盘美味的烤鱼和一份焦糖蛋奶在和煦的阳光中重新上路，游遍了整个海湾，电台里一直放着鲍勃·马利。感觉就像一切都会好起来的。【 Bob Marley，鲍勃·马利，最著名的雷鬼(Reggae)艺人，给感兴趣的同好推荐一首no woman, no cry，我觉得BC当时听的就是这首歌，因为其中有句歌词就是“everything gonna be alright”，刚好呼应了这一段中BC最后的那句感慨】
驱车返回的路上，我在Maria's Rock Café停下用餐。这个奇特的地方你必须体验一下，这里突起的花岗岩附近立着一个达利风格的筏子，周围点缀着漂亮的情趣雕塑。在总挂着微笑的老板娘Maria的带领下，可爱的店员们会把食材送到你的餐桌上，以便你在石蜡蜡烛加热的石锅上进行烹饪。油一旦开始冒烟，你就可以往里面扔下虾、鸡肉或是任何你想吃的东西。海鲜牛排烩非常新鲜，自己动手制做的料理会让你食欲大增、一扫而光。这里很有特色，让人大汗淋漓，还有自助的乐趣，绝对适合带孩子来玩(不过你可能得避免让孩子们看见那些过于直白的艺术作品，并且不能让那个艺术家，也就是Maria的男友，给孩子们表演他那些更有伤风化的小魔术)
不知不觉间，我在榕树酒店的时间所剩无多，于是我整装待发，包机直飞下一站，普拉兰岛。我受到Peter Mountford的邀请下榻于La Reserve酒店，这位很有魅力的英国经理从他父母手那儿接手了这家酒店，2004年海啸之后艰难的重建工作让他吃了不少苦。他向我传授了一些在塞舌尔从事宾馆业的真经。每天最头痛的问题是在自助早餐中满足西餐的要求；奇异果和其他非原产的水果在当地市场短缺到几乎能引起战争。
我参加了位于附近的拉迪格岛的环岛一日游。可以乘渡轮抵达，一旦你到了这里，只需要用双脚和租来的自行车就可以到处观光了——这座小岛约有2000名原住民，非常乐于指路和微笑。沿着小路走到Anse Source d'Argent海滩，你瞬间明白为什么这里会被评为世界最佳：一连串的金色小海湾被巨大的花岗岩巨石分割开来，这些巨石经由时间之手，被风化成各种鬼斧神工的形状。在礁岩的庇护下，海湾里的海水又浅又静，非常适合浮潜和日光浴。但是就算是天堂，也总是有太多的披着毛巾的游客，甚至于当天晚些时候，寻觅一处完美地点已经演变成了一场竞赛。在我晒太阳的时候，一位法国美女和她的朋友们从我边上走过，边走边拍着照片。直到她优美的臀部摇曳出我的视野，我才意识到我见到了Emmanuelle Béart本尊。【Emmanuelle Béart，艾曼纽·贝阿，法国女演员。缺是76年出生，这位美女姐姐是65年的= =】
回到普拉兰，我租了一辆车四处探险，不时停下来品尝路边的果汁、咖喱鱼，或是最后再游几次泳，又用了一天的时间去看美味的海椰子、寻觅难得一见的特产黑鹦鹉。穿越保护区的长途跋涉最好慢慢地走，因为当你顺着陡峭、无风的小路行进的时候会越来越潮湿难耐。不过还是挺有乐趣的。
我在Anse Lazio海滩上消磨了慵懒的最后一天，好时光就这样走向了尾声。塞舌尔群岛真是一座天堂，岛民们和他们的热情好客让人流连忘返。但是别慌，你随时可以回来。我知道我一定会的。
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欢迎阅读，欢迎debug~
呼—— 这篇翻的太痛苦了！为了行文的流畅采用了一些意译，希望本文能为同好们提供一点点理解上的帮助。
看他对塞舌尔的推崇程度，不知道当地会不会考虑找他当个宣传大使神马的...你看某主持和某歌手在香格里拉结婚还能收点当地赞助费呢...也许他将来会去塞舌尔度蜜月？who knows╮(╯▽╰)╭
缺亲用词很讲究，思维也够发散的~ 真心希望他早日能出本书~
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附录：
Date: 25 Nov 2011
By Benedict Cumberbatch
【广告时间：想探求偶像的精神世界？想了解偶像眼中的人间天堂？想知道偶像不为人知的嗜好品味？缺亲随笔不可不读。BC在塞舌尔群岛的假期见闻将为你揭示偶像的冰山一角，全文翻译附在后面】
原文：http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/lifestyle/esmagazine/article-24014314-holiday-holmes-benedict-cumberbatch-in-the-seychelles.do
 |
Benedict Cumberbatch in the Seychelles |
Nestled off the coast of East Africa, the Seychelles lie firmly within the tropics, jewels of green in an otherwise aquamarine expanse of Indian Ocean. They are famed for their beautiful beaches; the white sand, palm trees and rounded black granite rocks make the islands the very definition of paradise. And once I heard that this was the destination of choice for Wills and Kate's honeymoon... well, how could I argue with royalty?
Approaching the island, I found myself doing my best Lord Attenborough impression: 'Welcome to Jurassic Park!' The darker ocean gives way to the sparkling turquoise of the shoreline and the famed white beaches, behind which endless tropical vegetation stretches back to the foothills of immense granite mountains. The sight was intoxicating. In the early morning the first thing that hit me was the humidity and smell, both alien and alluring, a reminder (as if I needed one) that I really was far from home.
My hillside pool villa at the Banyan Tree Seychelles resort on the south-west coast of the island of Mahé opened on to a decked terrace with an infinity plunge pool and Jacuzzi, all perched on top of the rocks and surrounded by trees, with an uninterrupted view over the ocean. Through a shuttered sliding door lay a bathroom with a sunken tub perfectly positioned for a romantic stargazing bath for two. Everything in the resort was geared for honeymoon levels of smooching romance. I quickly learned a basic but crucial lesson: never come to paradise alone.
Anything you could possibly need, from maps, to guides, carhire, a doctor, suggested evening hangouts and excursions, the resort staff will happily arrange. But you won't want to venture far without first trying the epic breakfasts (every type of fruit, juice, pastry, cold meat, cooked breakfast, curry and local speciality you can imagine). The main reason I was in the Seychelles was for some serious R and R, so my first appointment was for a signature Thai massage. Reclining, post-treatment on the spa veranda as the sun set was one of those moments of tranquillity where I couldn't believe my luck. Then, as if it couldn't have got any better, I saw my first fruit bat. Those things are prehistorically big: 'Welcome to Jurassic park... again!' Suddenly, the air seemed to fill with 'flying foxes' as they are known locally, waking up for their evening feeding session - and later providing the vital service of shitting all over the islands, therefore ensuring plant dispersement.
As the stars rose I drifted down to the beach for a swim in a haze of post-massage calm. As I bobbed around, some of the bats broke off for a dip in the sea. Surrounded by all this magic I did a length of the bay and by the time I stepped out of the shallows the bioluminescence of tiny plankton lit up every movement of my body through the water. It's impossible to do the experience justice in words but it was one that I repeated most evenings. I rounded off the day with dinner at one of the three in-house restaurants. It was fish night, with scallops, bouillabaisse, and job fish (a filling, fleshy fish) on the menu, followed by white chocolate parfait with passion fruit jelly, raspberry jus and dark chocolate. Out of this world and reasonably priced.
I was keen to get my flippers on, even though I had been told that a particularly hot El Niño in the 1990s had done substantial damage to the sea life and coral. But I wanted to find out for myself, so the following morning, having overslept, I rushed off with a Tupperware container of breakfast (the smiling resourcefulness of the dining staff was one of the best aspects of my stay). With my Panama hat and Hawaiian shirt, I was a cliché of the hapless Brit abroad, so no wonder a loitering man who looked like a well-tanned walrus gave a smoky laugh: 'Didn't want to you miss your breakfast, then?' Leo, a Dutchman, flashed a smile and my diving adventures on Mahé began.
The joy of being out on the ocean and my first view of the dramatic coastline was transfixing. We headed for a site called Adam's Apple, named for the rock that marks the dive spot. Diving is like meditation: the serenity of the weightlessness, the buoyancy that enables you to swim with the fish , the noise of the slow inhaling and exhaling of pressurised air, the fascinating landscape of coral and rock on the seabed, and the inhabitants of this otherworldly space. Over the next couple of days I swam with giant barracudas, white-tipped reef sharks, humphead parrot fish, chocolate dips, lobsters, turtles, angel fish and stingrays. For my money, the variety of dive sites and sea life in the Seychelles is on a par with both Cuba and Mozambique.
After that I rented a car (the smallest I could find to try to avoid being hit by the careering local buses) and asked for directions to a good local beach. Everyone I met was friendly and willing to help, but some of the directions weren't very reliable. After a winding descent past waterfalls I broke through the cool shade of the forest canopy and the most beautiful golden sunshine afternoon spread before me. Glaud Bay is the most quintessentially laid-back Seychellois experience, a tiny village boasting little more than a church and a bar. After a dip I kicked back with a beer, a plate of delicious grilled fish and a killer creme caramel in the warm sunshine and surveyed the bay, with Bob Marley singing on the radio. Everything felt like it was gonna be alright.
On my way back I stopped at Maria's Rock Café. It's an oddity that must be experienced, a Dali-esque raft built around a granite outcrop and littered with some pretty racy sculptures. The lovely staff, headed by the ever-smiling Maria, bring ingredients for you to cook at your table on paraffin-candle heated rocks. Once the oil starts smoking, you chuck on prawns and chicken and whatever else takes your fancy. The mixture of surf and turf is fresh and, with generous portions of homemade relishes your appetite is the only guide to how much and how quickly the food should be eaten. It's full-on, sweaty, sticky-fingered fun and definitely a child-friendly experience (although you might have to avert their eyes from the more explicit artworks and ask the artist responsible, Maria's Italian boyfriend, not to perform his more risqué magic tricks).
Before I knew it my time at Banyan Tree was up and I saddled up onto a local charter flight that took me straight to my next stop, the island of Praslin. I was to stay at La Reserve resort at the invitation of Peter Mountford, the charming British manager who took over the running of the hotel from his parents, only to be saddled with the unenviable task of rebuilding the whole resort after the 2004 tsunami. He gave me a few home truths about running a hotel in the Seychelles. The daily headache seems to be trying to accommodate the demands of Western diets at the breakfast buffet; apparently fights can break out over boxes of kiwis and other non-indigenous fruits at the local market.
I took off for a day-trip around the nearby island of La Digue. There are regular ferries and once there all you need to get around are your two feet and a rented bike - the tiny island's 2,000 inhabitants are only too helpful with directions and a smile. Following the path to the beaches of Anse Source d'Argent you realise why they are often voted the best in the world: a series of small, golden coves separated by gigantic granite boulders weathered into the most extraordinary shapes by time. Sheltered by a reef, the sea is shallow and calm, perfect for snorkelling and sunbathing. But even in paradise it seems there are possessive tourists with towels and even later in the day there was a race to find a perfect spot. As I basked, a French beauty and her friends passed by, snapping photographs as they went. It was only as her beautiful bottom wiggled out of view that I realised it was in fact Emmanuelle Bé art.
Back on Praslin, I hired a car to explore, stopping for roadside fruit juices, curried fish, a few final night swims and a day-trip to see the deliciously rude coco de mer nut and catch a rare glimpse of a native black parrot. The trek through the well-labelled reservation is best done at an amble as the humidity climbs while you navigate the steep, airless paths. But it is fascinating.
I spent a lazy final day on Anse Lazio beach and with that my time was up. The Seychelles is a paradise on earth and the islanders and their smiling welcome will ensure that you will never want to leave. But don't panic, you can always return. I know I will.
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参考译文：
位于东非海岸附近的塞舌尔群岛，在蓝宝石般的印度洋中宛如一块充满热带风情的碧绿翡翠。
它们以美丽的海滩而闻名遐迩；白色细沙、棕榈树与圆润的黑色花岗岩构成了天堂般的群岛。我被告知这里还是威廉王子和凯特王妃的蜜月圣地...嗯，我有什么理由不赞同皇室的选择呢？
一靠近这座岛，我的脑海里就浮现出Attenborough爵士的那句：“欢迎来到侏罗纪公园！”深色的海水逐渐被碧光粼粼的海岸线和著名的白色沙滩所代替，后面衬着一望无际的热带植被，一路延伸到巨大的花岗岩山麓。眼前的景象令人陶醉。清晨，我最先触及到的就是湿润和气息，陌生而又诱人，提醒我已远离家乡。
【 Lord Attenborough，即Richard Attenborough，演过《侏罗纪公园》里面的让恐龙复活的坏老板——译者注】
我下榻的泳池别墅位于塞舌尔榕树酒店，属于马埃岛的西南岸，拥有双层露台，附带无边泳池和按摩浴池，总体建筑坐落于岩顶，四周环树，再配上一览无余的无敌海景。打开百叶拉门，浴室中有一方双人浴缸，完全为情侣浪漫观星浴量身打造。这个度假圣地里的一切都适用于蜜月中随时随地的缠绵。我很快认清了一个很简单但是也很残酷的事实：永远不该独自只身天堂。
酒店的工作人员乐于帮你搞定你可能需要的任何东西，从地图，到导游、租车、医生、晚上的好去处和远足项目。不过你决不会愿意错过与豪华早餐的第一次亲密接触而匆匆上路(早餐包括各种水果、果汁、糕点、冷盘肉、熟食、咖喱和各种你可以想象的当地特产)。我来塞舌尔主要是为了彻底的休闲放松，因此我的第一站就是特色泰式按摩。理疗过后，斜卧在Spa门廊上看日落，心底弥漫着一种难以置信的宁静。然后，我无比幸运地看见了人生第一只食果蝙蝠。这些家伙像史前动物那么庞大，仿佛有个声音再次说道“欢迎来到侏罗纪公园！”突然，空中满是这种蝙蝠，当地人称它们为“飞狐”，它们在黄昏醒来觅食——随后它们会在全岛提供排泄服务，以保障岛上的植被分布。
【R and R =rest and recreation】
星星升上天空，我漫无目的地走到海滩，伴着按摩之后的那种平和心境在海里游泳。当我四处游动的时候，一些蝙蝠俯冲下来探入海水中。在这些神奇景象的围绕下，我游完了整个海湾。在我迈出浅滩时，微小浮游生物的磷光从海水中照亮了我的每一个动作。那景象难以用语言描绘，而我几乎每晚都再重复这样的奇遇。我在三个室内餐厅中的一家享受了晚餐，为这一天画上了圆满的句号。这是一场海鲜大餐，菜单上有扇贝、马赛鱼汤，还有job fish(一种夹馅的肉质鱼)，接着还有白巧克力冻糕，配有果冻、覆盆子酱和黑巧克力。品质非凡而又价格公道。
我急切的想穿上脚蹼去潜水，虽然我被告知九十年代时一场严重的厄尔尼诺现象严重破坏了这里海洋生命和珊瑚，但是我想亲眼一探究竟，所以第二天一早，由于睡过了头，我带着装有早餐的特百惠餐盒就匆匆上路了(餐厅侍者的善解人意和随机应变太赞了)。头戴巴拿马草帽，身穿夏威夷衬衫，一派悲催的经典英式度假造型，无怪乎一位酷似晒黑了的海象的路人吐着烟圈笑道：“你不情愿错过这里的早餐吧？”(潜水教练)荷兰人Leo脸上闪过一丝笑意，我的马埃岛潜水探险就这么开始了。
出海后第一次看到绵长海岸线的喜悦让我惊呆了。我们向一处被称作Adam's Apple的地点进发，它因一块标志着潜水点的岩石而得名。潜水就像一种冥想：失重的宁静感，和鱼儿共游的悬浮感，缓缓呼吸压缩空气的声音，海床上珊瑚礁的迷人景观，再加上居住于这个奇异世界的生物。接下来的几天，大梭鱼、白鳍礁鲨、隆头鹦哥鱼、光鳃鱼、龙虾、海龟、神仙鱼还有黄貂鱼，就在我身边游动。在我看来，塞舌尔群岛潜水点的数量之多、海底风光之美，足以与古巴和莫桑比克相提并论。【原文中的各种鱼名真让人头大= = 随后为您带来Pancy秘制科普小贴士；感谢Dr.黄兔君提供chocolate dip~】
随后，我租了一辆车(特意找了一辆最小的，为了尽量躲避横冲直撞的当地巴士)，边开边问去沙滩的路。我遇见的所有人都很友好、乐于助人，不过有些路指得不太靠谱。我沿着一条蜿蜒的坡路经过瀑布，随后冲出了森林冠层的清凉荫蔽，午后最美的金色阳光在我面前平铺开来。Glaud Bay是塞舌尔式的悠然自得的最典型代表，这个小村庄小到仅有一家教堂和一家酒馆。在酒馆小憩之后，我带着一罐啤酒，一盘美味的烤鱼和一份焦糖蛋奶在和煦的阳光中重新上路，游遍了整个海湾，电台里一直放着鲍勃·马利。感觉就像一切都会好起来的。【 Bob Marley，鲍勃·马利，最著名的雷鬼(Reggae)艺人，给感兴趣的同好推荐一首no woman, no cry，我觉得BC当时听的就是这首歌，因为其中有句歌词就是“everything gonna be alright”，刚好呼应了这一段中BC最后的那句感慨】
驱车返回的路上，我在Maria's Rock Café停下用餐。这个奇特的地方你必须体验一下，这里突起的花岗岩附近立着一个达利风格的筏子，周围点缀着漂亮的情趣雕塑。在总挂着微笑的老板娘Maria的带领下，可爱的店员们会把食材送到你的餐桌上，以便你在石蜡蜡烛加热的石锅上进行烹饪。油一旦开始冒烟，你就可以往里面扔下虾、鸡肉或是任何你想吃的东西。海鲜牛排烩非常新鲜，自己动手制做的料理会让你食欲大增、一扫而光。这里很有特色，让人大汗淋漓，还有自助的乐趣，绝对适合带孩子来玩(不过你可能得避免让孩子们看见那些过于直白的艺术作品，并且不能让那个艺术家，也就是Maria的男友，给孩子们表演他那些更有伤风化的小魔术)
不知不觉间，我在榕树酒店的时间所剩无多，于是我整装待发，包机直飞下一站，普拉兰岛。我受到Peter Mountford的邀请下榻于La Reserve酒店，这位很有魅力的英国经理从他父母手那儿接手了这家酒店，2004年海啸之后艰难的重建工作让他吃了不少苦。他向我传授了一些在塞舌尔从事宾馆业的真经。每天最头痛的问题是在自助早餐中满足西餐的要求；奇异果和其他非原产的水果在当地市场短缺到几乎能引起战争。
我参加了位于附近的拉迪格岛的环岛一日游。可以乘渡轮抵达，一旦你到了这里，只需要用双脚和租来的自行车就可以到处观光了——这座小岛约有2000名原住民，非常乐于指路和微笑。沿着小路走到Anse Source d'Argent海滩，你瞬间明白为什么这里会被评为世界最佳：一连串的金色小海湾被巨大的花岗岩巨石分割开来，这些巨石经由时间之手，被风化成各种鬼斧神工的形状。在礁岩的庇护下，海湾里的海水又浅又静，非常适合浮潜和日光浴。但是就算是天堂，也总是有太多的披着毛巾的游客，甚至于当天晚些时候，寻觅一处完美地点已经演变成了一场竞赛。在我晒太阳的时候，一位法国美女和她的朋友们从我边上走过，边走边拍着照片。直到她优美的臀部摇曳出我的视野，我才意识到我见到了Emmanuelle Béart本尊。【Emmanuelle Béart，艾曼纽·贝阿，法国女演员。缺是76年出生，这位美女姐姐是65年的= =】
回到普拉兰，我租了一辆车四处探险，不时停下来品尝路边的果汁、咖喱鱼，或是最后再游几次泳，又用了一天的时间去看美味的海椰子、寻觅难得一见的特产黑鹦鹉。穿越保护区的长途跋涉最好慢慢地走，因为当你顺着陡峭、无风的小路行进的时候会越来越潮湿难耐。不过还是挺有乐趣的。
我在Anse Lazio海滩上消磨了慵懒的最后一天，好时光就这样走向了尾声。塞舌尔群岛真是一座天堂，岛民们和他们的热情好客让人流连忘返。但是别慌，你随时可以回来。我知道我一定会的。
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欢迎阅读，欢迎debug~
呼—— 这篇翻的太痛苦了！为了行文的流畅采用了一些意译，希望本文能为同好们提供一点点理解上的帮助。
看他对塞舌尔的推崇程度，不知道当地会不会考虑找他当个宣传大使神马的...你看某主持和某歌手在香格里拉结婚还能收点当地赞助费呢...也许他将来会去塞舌尔度蜜月？who knows╮(╯▽╰)╭
缺亲用词很讲究，思维也够发散的~ 真心希望他早日能出本书~
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