1924年的英国珠峰远征队

eastvirginia eastvirginia 2011-12-21 00:43:17
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2011-12-21 01:34:30 [已注销]

今天刚看到过先关的图书~~

eastvirginia
2011-12-21 01:35:48 eastvirginia (Life is stranger than fiction.)

对,刚出不久的《珠峰幽魂》

Favillae
2011-12-21 09:02:07 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

欧文在队内能修理一切坏掉的东西。按照Ghosts of Everest里的说法,出征前他就在牛津的实验室里鼓捣了氧气装置好久,但最后抵达珠峰区域后,工厂送到的氧气装置并不是他预想的那种,而且空瓶、漏气现象很严重,他不得不利用手边能现找到的材料就地改进。尽管一段时间内队内面临的形势严峻,计划屡屡受挫,大家心情显然都不会好,但欧文从不发怨言,总是任劳任怨,马洛里的长女克莱尔在幽魂的前言里特别提到这一点,虽然不一定是指这是马洛里选择他的原因之一,不过显然他的这种性格给马洛里留下了深刻的好印象。


俩人遇难后,欧文的家人一直耿耿于怀,认为马洛里选择欧文是让他去送死。
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。。。。真的是这样诶。。。。

Favillae
2011-12-21 09:05:48 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

我发现凡是天才,都有这样那样奇怪又有趣的小缺陷,比如欧文的拼写和交流障碍,马洛里自己的超级健忘症和拖延症。

eastvirginia
2011-12-21 09:32:46 eastvirginia (Life is stranger than fiction.)

。。。

英伦风情
2011-12-21 10:10:12 英伦风情 (痴心不改,永爱三狮)

天才有这样或那样的无伤大雅的小缺陷才显得更人性化,更真实可爱嘛!

英伦风情
2011-12-21 10:17:14 英伦风情 (痴心不改,永爱三狮)

欧文是个好小伙,人又帅又活泼,而且任劳任怨的好品质真不是每个天才都有的。

Favillae
2011-12-21 10:28:11 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

每日邮报上去年的这则,看下面的留言。
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1303275/George-Mallory-probably-died-perfect-storm-BEFORE-Everest-summit.html

我摘录几条:

We might never know for sure if they did or didn't and this new research does nothing to help solve the mystery. How does anyone know that they hadn't already got to the summit before the storm hit? One thing is certain they gave it their best shot. Its a tough enough mountain to climb with today's technology and modern equipment. What did they have? I don't care if they reached the summit or not, they tried. They got off the couch and tried. That's good enough for me.

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What made their expeditions even more remarkable is that they set off not even knowing if it would be possible to survive in the air at the top of the mountain. As they ascended they must have got weaker and weaker. In the article it mentions their inadequate clothing. Maybe this is why they used other means to get used to the cold. For example, one of the organisers of these expeditions, Younghusband, although not a climber himself at the time of the Mallory expedition, had a habit of bathing in cold water every morning, even when it meant he had to break the ice off first. There is also a photo of Mallory naked at the foot of the mountain wearing nothing but boots and a rucksack, presumably getting his body acclimatised to the cold.

关于当时的队员们在衣物不够保暖的情况下用特殊方式锻炼自己适应严寒气候。如杨哈斯本德不是登山家却也有清晨用冷水洗浴的习惯。(他把乔治同学裸体的那张照片也看作是这种适应方法,确实,毕竟在那种气候环境下再水仙的人也不能到处暴露吧。。。)

22年的时候芬奇就已经搞出了羽绒服,并且自己试穿了(他和G.Bruce的那次攻顶尝试中maybe就穿着),但当时队内没第二人对此感兴趣。就连氧气,乔治也是在后来才逐渐改变看法的。而如Norton、Odell等人仍坚持无氧攀登方式。

乔治所说的那种“sheer joy”,今天有多少人还能体会得到?

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Legendary mountaineer George Mallory and Andrew Irvine in my view did reach the summit and died on the descent - we can all have our views. I would also expect him to fully dressed in shirt collar and tie as was the custom. George was a supreme hero of our time and should be honored as such not denigrated.

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引用某位留言者的一句话:

May he rest in peace at the top of the world surrounded by Nature's glory.

and all brave heroes too.

Favillae
2011-12-21 10:39:22 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

Sandy Irvine的传记,written by his great niece
http://books.google.com.hk/books?id=N3k-PgAACAAJ&dq=Sandy+Irvine&hl=zh-CN&sa=X&ei=T0bxTu_9MoSUiAew9OXUAQ&ved=0CDEQ6AEwAA

eastvirginia
2011-12-21 12:02:21 eastvirginia (Life is stranger than fiction.)

先驱就先驱,虽败犹荣

Favillae
2011-12-21 12:17:02 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

败不败还难说呢,Tom Holzel的这次行动如何了

eastvirginia
2011-12-21 12:19:58 eastvirginia (Life is stranger than fiction.)

不知道,昨晚写完己经快两点了,没来得及查

英伦风情
2011-12-21 15:15:07 英伦风情 (痴心不改,永爱三狮)

我们都希望他们是胜利的英雄。但是没关系——他们的人生充实、精彩就足够

Favillae
2011-12-21 15:25:11 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

我去查查Tom Holzel。工作交接差不多了,我突然又感到了清闲。。。

eastvirginia
2011-12-21 15:32:09 eastvirginia (Life is stranger than fiction.)

板凳

Favillae
2011-12-21 15:39:41 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

http://www.velocitypress.com/mallory_irvine.shtml#Did_Mallory
这个挺有意思,in 1980, the
Japanese Alpine Club wrote in reply to your letter to be on the lookout for Irvine, that a Chinese
porter on Everest told them he had discovered “an English dead” at 8100m.这是怎么回事呢?中国官方后来再三否认了这个“发现”。

Audrey Salkeld是那本薄薄的骗钱的马洛里画传Mystery on Everest的作者= =

Favillae
2011-12-21 15:46:49 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

这个文章里讲了英方在搜寻马欧问题上的态度。。。颇有点令人那个郁闷

TH不满英方的态度,认为本来应该是他们出发去搜寻,去找出马欧身上究竟发生了什么,但他们却根本不做,还指责他们这些努力去做的人为盗墓贼。。
It was rancorous pique (ed: bitter pride). Because it was they who should have thought
to look for the two climbers. Instead, they did absolutely nothing to find out what happened
to Mallory & Irvine, claimed that the “English dead” was another ‘Everest ghost,’ and complained
we were nothing less than grave robbers—all pretty much in the same breath. It was
dog-in-the-manger at its finest: we never looked, so how dare you?

eastvirginia
2011-12-21 15:55:40 eastvirginia (Life is stranger than fiction.)

哈哈,两位泉下有知也不会安宁

英伦风情
2011-12-21 15:56:08 英伦风情 (痴心不改,永爱三狮)

也许是因为他们对待逝者的看法不同吧。也许英方觉得不去打扰逝者的灵魂才叫尊重。

英伦风情
2011-12-21 15:57:11 英伦风情 (痴心不改,永爱三狮)

而美方觉得为他们正名才叫尊重。

Favillae
2011-12-21 16:04:35 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

诶?你的第二张图里,注解发现欧文冰镐的位置是27700英尺,怎么欧文那块文字介绍里变成了27900英尺?

哦,中国队那个发现原来就是王洪保的那次啊。08年的这个帖子里TH的意见还是消极的,他认为马欧失败了。

Favillae
2011-12-21 16:11:10 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

let mystery remain mystery

eastvirginia
2011-12-21 16:17:10 eastvirginia (Life is stranger than fiction.)

维基说是27900英尺,我发现不同资料高度数据有差异。

Favillae
2011-12-21 16:37:58 Favillae (S'il plaît à dieu.)

这倒是的,包括第六营所在高度,还有22年Finch和G.Bruce那次达到高度。可能是测量问题吧?

eastvirginia
2011-12-21 16:56:45 eastvirginia (Life is stranger than fiction.)

那应该是测量精度问题,恰巧也是200误差

peterliu
2011-12-27 10:27:47 peterliu

向英雄们致敬

Hertacis
2012-01-04 13:16:10 Hertacis (为了冶金事业的荣耀。)

刚看完纪录片《the wildest dream》。


eastvirginia
eastvirginia (北京)

头像是奥德•温盖特(Orde Wingate)将军 Orde Charles Wingate was a...

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